i would start on the pond now lol. 4 turtles will create alot of waste in an aquarium. they do grow fast, and you wont believe it when you realize how little they USED to be. not many people get 4 at a time, but its all good. the main problem people have with turtles is diet and uv light. especially babies, because they need the nutrients and uv to grow and be healthy. if you search yahooanswers for red eared slider questions, a majority of them are people who have no idea how to care for the turtle they have just bought or recieved as a present. its good to see you took initiative to find a web site or two on them already. thats awesome. heres some more info you might not have found yet. keep up the good work. its so good to see someone building a pond for them as well. you never see that here. its always someone who wants to keep an adult or two in a 20 gallon and wants to know why they have a soft shell and arent eating. man youve lifted my spirits lol. seriously. in just a few words youve done more than the last 150 red eared slider questions ive seen... anyways enough butt kissing, heres your info..im including info from different sites, because ive found its best to read a bunch of different opinions, and find what works best for you. just like yahooanswers.
Aquatic turtles are delightful popular pets. Unfortunately, their popularity doesn't mean they are easy to care for. Aquatic turtles require much more care than many people realize and are one of the most labour intensive of all reptiles to maintain.
Housing
Requirements vary according to the size of the turtle and the number being kept. A variety of enclosures can be utilized from glass aquaria, plastic containers, stock watering tanks and pond liners to elaborate outdoor ponds. Outdoor enclosures should have some shade available. Never place an aquarium in direct sun, it could easily overheat. A rule of thumb for minimum cage size is that the combined surface area of all residents' carapaces (upper shells) should not exceed 25% of the cage's floor surface area. Floor surface area does not include any inaccessible areas that the turtle cannot rest on. With the exception of large outdoor ponds keep in mind one rule: the simpler the setup, the easier it is to clean. Avoid gravel or sand substrates because they make cleaning much more difficult. If more elaborate enclosures are set up with substrates they should have filtration, bottom drainage and low stocking densities.
Water Quality
Clean water is crucial to good health and the best way to assure this is through frequent water changes. Partial water changes are not acceptable. Several factors determine how often the water should be cleaned. Smaller volumes require more frequent water changes. For instances, for 3 or less 4 inch turtles, a 10 gallon aquarium would need to be changes 2 to 3 times per week and a 50 gallon tank would need to be changed once a week. Thus, the larger the volume, the less frequently it needs to be changed. Obviously, stocking density will dramatically affect this. The more turtles in the tank, the more frequently the water must be changed even with very large volumes. Feeding frequency also affects water quality. The more often one feeds, the more often one cleans. Some foods foul the water quickly. If turtles are fed in their enclosure the water should be changed within 12 hours of feeding. The water can be kept cleaner by feeding in a separate container. Initially some turtles are reluctant to feed in the separate container but can be acclimated to this over time. For smaller setups (10 gallon aquariums or less) one can carry the whole setup to a sink or bathtub for rinsing. For larger setups one must drain the water. Portable submersible pumps are ideal. If a floor drain is present, a drain can be installed in the bottom of the cage, attach a hose and drain the cage by gravity.
It is important to scrub and rinse the cage well to remove residual bacterial growth on all sides. Abrupt changes in water temperature can kill turtles so make sure the water temperature after cleaning is similar to what it was prior to cleaning. Dechlorination of water is not recommended. Young turtles and those not accustomed to chlorinated water squint their eyes at first but quickly adapt. Water should be at least as deep as the width of the widest turtle's shell so that if overturned the turtle can right itself and avoid drowning.
Filtration can decrease the frequency of water changes but not eliminate them. Keep in mind that even if the water looks clean it can still have a lot of harmful material in it. The best filters for turtles are external filters, either canister or power lifting hanging types. The charcoal and filter material/bags must be changes frequently. The canister types are far more effective but also more expensive. Under gravel filters are not recommended. Keep in mind that filtration can decrease the times interval between water changes but must not completely replace them.
Temperature and Light Requirements
As well as being clean, the water must be warm: 24-29 C (75-82 F) is recommended for most species. Submersible aquarium heaters are required and the temperature monitored with liquid crystal display thermometers outside the tank. Don't use one inside the tank.
A dry "haul-out " area should be present so that turtles can crawl out of the water, dry off and bask. Basking is a means of behavioral thermoregulation whereby turtles can achieve their preferred optimum body temperature. Basking areas can be as simple as a flat rock resting on a submerged brick or elaborate platforms can be built with access via a plastic ramp. The basking area should be large enough for all turtles to completely emerge from the water and secure enough that it won't topple and trap a turtle under water. Provide a screen over top to prevent escape.
The enclosure should have a "thermal gradient". This allows the turtle to thermoregulate and maintain its preferred temperature throughout the day. Ambient air temperature of 24-29 C (75-82 F) is adequate for most species. An incandescent 50-150 watt light bulb with a reflector (e.g. a reading lamp) directed towards the basking area will create a hot spot for basking. Alternatively one can keep the room temperature within this range. Ultraviolet lights are assumed important for basking species for vitamin D synthesis. UV lights may not be needed if mice are provided in the diet (mice are a natural source of vitamin D). A fluorescent black light and a Vita-lite, Chroma 50 or Colortone 50 2 feet or less from the basking area with no glass or plastic between the light and animal will provide full spectrum light.
Click Here for more information on UltraViolet Light for Reptiles
Diet and Nutrition
A balanced diet is very important for good health. A wide variety of foods should be fed. Fish (goldfish, guppies, trout, bait minnows, smelt) are all suitable. Whole fish are better than gutted fish and can be fed chopped or whole. Most suppliers of feeder fish minimize their feeding to insure good water quality in overcrowded setups. Ideally, fish should be well fed prior to being fed to turtles. Freezing for more than 3 days may eliminate transfer of parasites. Goldfish can be frozen in water in ice cube trays to reduce freezer burn. Individual ice cubes containing a dozen or so goldfish can be thawed as needed. Wild caught sticklebacks and mosquito fish should not be fed because they are natural vectors for several serious parasites. Avoid large quantities of oil laden species such as mackerel, and to a lesser extent smelt and goldfish. If fed in moderation as part of a balanced diet, frozen fish should not cause any problems. Fish should not make up the majority of aquatic turtles' diets.
Chopped or whole baby or chopped, whole, skinned, adult mice are eaten readily by many species. Baby mice (pinkies) should not be fed exclusively. Older mice are an excellent source of calcium for shell growth. Mouse liver is also a good source of vitamin A. Chopped, whole, skinned adult mice are one item that can and should be fed in large quantities.
Commercial diets such as Trout (or Reptile) Chow, Reptomin Floating Food Sticks, Tender Vittles or Happy Cat semi-moist cat foods, Gaines Burgers semi-moist dog food are all fine in small amounts. Commercial diets should be soaked until soft before offering them to the turtle. Patience and persistence is required with commercial diets because acceptance can take several weeks. Other commercially available turtle diets can also be fed in moderation. Check the ingredients - desiccated insects are nutritionally inadequate and should not be fed.
A variety of insects (crickets, wax worms, mealworms, flies, moths, etc.) in moderation are also good but realize insects are calcium deficient. Most aquatic turtles feed underwater. Therefore dusting the insects with calcium will do little to enrich their calcium content. Feeding calcium rich diets to insects for several days will boost their calcium content.
Earthworms and night crawlers are widely available and nutritious; small turtles often need them chopped. Lean raw beef, liver, gizzards or chicken can occasionally be fed but are severely calcium deficient unless bone is present. Liver is a rich source of vitamin A. Hamburger is not recommended because it is calcium deficient and the high fat content will leave a greasy film on the surface of the water. Crayfish can injure turtles and transmit disease and should not be fed.
To summarize, UV lights, proper temperature, and a wide variety of foods are important to ensure proper growth. Dietary changes are important but acceptance can take weeks. Don't be discouraged if new foods are tasted and spit out initially - keep trying.
Many sliders and pond turtles become more herbivorous as they reach mature size and grow less rapidly. Dark leafy vegetables such as kale, romaine lettuce, Swiss chard, watercress, endive, bok choy, escarole, spinach and duckweed and fruits such as apples, oranges, carrot, grapes, melons and bananas are taken by some turtles.
For larger collections, recipes for prepared rations are available.
Common Health Problems
The most common problems seen with aquatic turtles are the result of poor husbandry.
Skin infections and shell abscesses are usually due to poor water quality and no dry haul out area.
Pneumonia can result from cool environmental temperature, poor water quality and vitamin A deficiency (as well as many other causes). Turtles with pneumonia will float unevenly and breath with their mouths open. Often a click or squeak is present.
Several common problems are associated with inadequate nutrition. Vitamin A deficiencies and eye infections can cause swollen, red eyes.
Calcium and vitamin D deficiencies can cause stunted growth and a soft, deformed shell with upturned edges.
Parasites are not uncommon and fecal examinations are recommended.
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Red-Eared Sliders
Trachemys scripta, T. s. elegans
©1994 Melissa Kaplan
Natural History
Yellow-eared and Red-eared Sliders (Trachemys [Chrysemys] scripta; T. s. elegans,) are found throughout the United States east of the Rockies. They are the sliders is the one most often sold in pet stores here in the U.S. and abroad. These fresh water turtles spend much of their time in the warm waters of their native habitat. While they are strong underwater swimmers, these sliders spend much of the warmer hours of the day hauled out on logs or rocks (or, when very small, on marsh weeds and other aquatic plants) basking in the sun. All of the sliders are omnivores, eating both animal protein and vegetable/plant matter. Younger turtles need up to 40% of their food from protein sources; adult turtles feed more heavily on vegetation. In the wild they begin by eating tiny fish and amphibian larva, water snails and a variety of plants growing in the water and on land.
It is illegal in the U.S. for pet stores to sell any turtle that is less than four inches (10.6 cm) in length (this is problematic for those few turtle species whose full adult size is 4" or less!). The ones sold legally must be at least four inches long from the neck end of the carapace (top shell) to the tail end of the carapace. If male, it will be somewhere between 2-4 years old and already sexually mature. Wild females reach maturity later, between 5-7 years, and will then be over 5 inches (12.7 cm) in length; in captivity, females may reach maturity at about 3 1/2 years. You will be able to tell male from females: males are smaller than females in overall body size but have longer tails.
As with all wild-caught reptiles, the animals found in pet stores have been under stress for some time. As a result, they are most likely suffering from protozoan and bacterial infections, including Salmonella which is easily transmitted to young children. Additionally, they are usually emaciated and dehydrated due to long periods of time without food or water or being held in areas too cold to stimulate the appetite; many of these turtles will not eat when they are stressed or frightened, and cannot eat when they are too cold. As soon as you can after you take your turtle home, scoop up a fresh fecal sample and take it and your turtle to a reptile veterinarian. While the feces is being tested, the vet will check out your turtle for signs of nutritional deficiencies, topical bacterial or fungal infections, beak overgrowth, respiratory and eye infections - all very common in wild-caught animals (and in captive turtles who have not been provided with the proper environment or diet). Make sure your turtle is given all the medication prescribed by the vet. If you have trouble administering it yourself, take your turtle back to the vet to have it done. If maintained at the proper temperatures, fed a healthy varied diet and kept in a stress-free active environment, your turtle may outlive you: some individuals have lived more than 100 years.
Creating the Proper Habitat
All sliders need both a warm, dry area and a large pool of warm water. In the wild, they chose water that warms up quickly in the sun each day. You will need to provide a warm enclosure with both heated water and a warm place for your turtle to climb out and dry off. The water must be kept clean; rotting bits of food mixed with feces will combine to make an unhealthful habitat and a sick turtle. Turtles are messy eaters and defecate in their water, so cleaning will be an almost daily routine.
Tank
For the smallest turtles, start with at least a 30-50 gallon (113-189 liter) glass aquarium (see Water before you rush out and buy that 30 gallon aquarium you saw on sale!) . If you are not interested in actually being able to watch your turtle swimming around under water, you can use a suitably large opaque plastic container such as a large plastic storage box bottom, concrete mixing bin or deep kitty litter pan. You can use clean aquarium rock and gravel to build a slope up from the wet end (the pool) to the dry end (the land). You can silicone together pieces of Plexiglas to make a moveable platform onto which your turtle can crawl onto to rest. Floating or anchored cork rafts or logs are another alternative. Rough rocks must not be used as they can scratch turtle shells which allows bacterial and fungal infections to get started and penetrate into the turtle's body.
Note: one of the biggest mistakes aquatic turtle keepers make is not providing a body of water that deep, long and wide enough for their turtle. The minimum size required for a 4" turtle will not work for a 6" or 8" (15 or 20 cm) aquatic turtle, and certainly not for a full grown one. Since turtles will grow relatively quickly when they are cared for properly, you should start off with an enclosure size big enough for your turtle to comfortably grow into for at least 1-2 years. That will give you some time to think out, plan, and build the turtle's next, much larger, enclosure.
Think two turtles are better than one? Assuming they are compatible, it can be nice for your turtles to have one another for company. But two turtles require an even larger enclosure than a single turtle. So, unless you are prepared to keep and service giant enclosures for turtles who can easily reach the size of dinner plates, rethink getting two...or even one.
Water
The water must be at least 1.5 to 2 times your turtle's total length (called carapace length, or CL) in depth, with several extra inches of air space between the surface of the water to the top edge of the tank to prevent escapes. The tank length needs to be at least 4-5 times the CL, and the front-to-back width should be at least 2-3 times the CL. So, for a turtle who is 4" CL, your enclosure water area must be at minimum 6-8 inches (15-20 cm) deep, 16-20 inches (40-51 cm) in length, and 8-12 inches (20-31 cm) in width. As you can see, if you are going to have a land area at one end as well as sufficient water area, you need something much larger than a 10-20 gallon (38-76 liter) tank. See Reptile Housing: Size, Dimension, and Lifestyle for the dimensions of standard aquaria and other enclosures.
Keep in mind that if your turtle is not yet full grown (hint: if he is not yet as large as a dinner plate, he is not full grown), you not only need to provide room in the tank (water and land) for him the size he is now, you need to provide additional room to allow for future growth.
Water Filter
Proper water filtering systems are necessary to keep the water fairly fresh between your weekly changes. If you have a powerful filter system and you feed your turtle in another tank, you may be able to get away with replacing 25-50% of the water each week for two or three weeks, emptying and cleaning out the tank thoroughly every third or fourth week. Remember to replace the water with warm water. Talk to your aquarium shop about the following types of filters that are suitable for Red-Eared Sliders: canister, undergravel, sponge, and power filters. You will also need some type of automated siphon for the partial changes of water between the overall heavy-duty changes and cleaning.
Water Heater
The water temperature must be maintained between 75-86 degrees F (23.8-30 C). If you buy a submersible pre-calibrated heater, test it first and make sure the water is the proper temperature before you put your turtle in the water. Too cold and it won't eat; too hot and you'll cook it. Buy good quality an aquarium thermometer and monitor the temperature regularly.
Area Heating
If the room the turtle is being kept in is always over 75 F (23.8 C), then you will only need to heat up a basking area, rather than heating up the room, too. Using an incandescent light or spot light, allow the area closest to the light to reach 85-88 F (29.4-31 C).
Make sure there is absolutely no way for the light to fall into the water or for the turtle to come into direct contact with the light bulb. Be aware that the light will heat up the water to a certain degree so be sure to monitor the water temperature.
Young sliders, and any sick turtle, should be kept warmer (water temperatures between 82-85 F) than the average healthy adult. Sustained low temperatures (between 65-72 F [18.3-22.2 C]) will cause turtles to stop feeding and respiratory infections may result.
If the room is not warm enough to provide the turtle with the proper air temperature gradient, you will need to supplement the heat, providing another source of heat which may be used day and night in addition to the basking light. One alternative is to use a ceramic heat elements (CHE). CHEs screw into regular incandescent sockets and come in a variety of watts, and last a very long time. Safety warning: you must install CHEs into porcelain light sockets. These devices throw enough heat upwards to melt plastic sockets.
Note: Don't guess at the water or air temperatures. Reptile species have very specific temperature ranges during the day and during the night. If your guess is off, that will make the difference between a reptile that thrives, and one who merely survives - or dies. Use thermometers.
Special Lighting
On sunny days when the outside temperatures are warm, feel free to put your turtle outside for a while for some sunshine. Either move your turtle tank outside (so long as it is not a glass enclosure, which can overheat to the point of causing fatal hyperthermia), or set up a secure outdoor enclosure for your turtle to sun and soak in, or set up an indoor enclosure complete with a UVB-supplemented basking and a swimming area. The latter will be required if you cannot regularly get your turtle outside or otherwise safely exposed to sunlight (not filtered through plastic or glass), or live where the amount of natural UVB is not sufficient year round to enable your turtle to make the amount of pre-vitamin D it needs to ensure adequate calcium metabolism.
Keep in mind that, in the wild, when turtles get too hot when basking in the sun or upper layers of sun-heated water, they simply dive into deeper, cooler, water or move into a cool pocket of wet bankside overhung with plants providing shade. So, while it is great to give your turtle some direct sunlight, you must guard against it getting too hot, which can result in fatal hyperthermia. If you cannot provide a suitably cooler retreat area your turtle can go to when it gets too warm, and you can't keep a direct eye on your turtle to watch for signs of overheating, don't put it outside. Enclosures are like automobiles: the temperatures inside reach 20-30 degrees hotter than the outside air temperature, making the inside potentially lethal on mildly warm days.
Exposure to a ultraviolet B (UVB)-producing fluorescent light, such as a Vita-Lite®, is recommended by some turtle experts, and is considered mandatory by others. UVB exposure is an essential part of the calcium metabolization process, and calcium deficiencies are very common in captive turtles. Many herpetoculturists use UVB-producing fluorescents because of their importance in calcium metabolization but also because the UVA they produce may have subtle psychological benefits such as improved appetite, since many reptiles see into the ultraviolet range.
Electric Shock Hazard
As with tropical fish, there is a danger of electrical shock--to you and to the turtle--when using electric filters, water heaters and lamps in and around the tank of water. All electrical cords should be connected to a ground-fault interrupter which shuts off the current if anything happens. Buy one at your local hardware store. Do not use bulbs with higher wattage than your light fixture is rated for (in other words: no 100 watt bulbs in 60 watt fixtures). Turtles will investigate and knock things about. You must secure your water heater behind an immovable wall or partition to turtle-proof it.
Feeding Your Turtle
To ensure proper nutrition, strong growth and a healthy long-lived turtle, feed a varied diet to both adults and juveniles. Just remember that adults eat less animal protein and more vegetable matter. Juveniles must be fed every day; adults can be fed once every two to three days. Do not feed more than they can eat; the excess food will go to waste and foul the water. Feed a combination of the following foods:
Commercial diets (No more than 25% of total diet)
Trout Chow, commercial floating fish, reptile or turtle food (pellets, sticks or tablets). The pellets and sticks have the advantage of being formulated specifically for reptiles and don't decompose in the water as fast as other foods.
Animal Protein (No more than 25% of total diet)
Live feeder fish--do not feed defrosted frozen fish; they are deficient in thiamin and excess consumption will cause a thiamin deficiency in your turtle. Earthworms--buy them from a reptile or aquarium store; do not feed the ones from your yard as they may contain bacteria, parasites and pesticides against which your turtle has no immunity. Finely chopped raw lean beef, beef heart and cooked chicken are okay for treats, but are not appropriate as a major part of a balanced diet for whole prey eaters. Raw chicken and beef is too often riddled with Salmonella, E. coli and other food-borne organisms. High quality dog kibble can be offered occasionally as treats, too; like muscle meat, dog and cat foods are not appropriate when used as a significant portion of a turtle's diet.
Plant Matter (50% or more of total diet)
Offer leaves of dark leafy greens such as collard, mustard and dandelion greens. Offer shredded carrots (and carrot tops), squash and green beans. Thawed frozen mixed vegetables may be used occasionally, but care should be taken as some frozen green vegetables develop thiaminase which destroys that all-important B vitamin. Fruit can be offered raw; shred hard fruits like apples and melons, chopping soft fruits such as berries. To help keep their beak in trim, let them gnaw on pieces of cantaloupe with the (well washed) rind still attached. Check out the edible aquatic plants sold at aquarium stores, too. You can drop these into their enclosure for them to free feed upon.
Vitamin Supplements should be added twice a week. Use a good reptile or turtle multivitamin. Turtles must also be supplied with additional calcium; they often enjoy taking bites out of calcium blocks and gnawing on cuttlebone, so always have some available to them.
Health
Watch your turtle for any signs of illness: cloudy, closed or swollen eyes; swollen cheeks; open mouth breathing; bubbly mucous around the nose or mouth; runny stools; loss of appetite; listlessness; spots appearing on plastron (bottom shell), carapace or body; soft shell or excessive shedding.
Newly acquired turtles are under a lot of stress and may be riddled with bacterial or parasitic infections that may be passed along to you or your kids. One of the reasons for it being illegal to sell turtles under 4" in the U.S. is that, once the law was passed, it greatly reduced the number of hospitalizations and deaths of children whose parents did not realize that most turtles carry Salmonellae, which is irregularly passed through their feces into their water, and onto their shells and skin. Read up on proper precautions to take to prevent infection of children and immunocompromised adults.
Always take a sick turtle to a reptile veterinarian. Reptile vets are an important part of keeping healthy reptiles healthy, and helping sick ones attain health. Many people don't want to spend more for a vet visit than they paid for the animal. A good rule of thumb for all animals, especially 'cheap' ones, is: if you can't afford the vet, you can't afford the pet.
Make sure to have your children checked out by their pediatrician if they begin to exhibit any signs of illness (nausea, stomach aches, vomiting, diarrhea).
Handwashing Hint: One way to get your children to make sure they are vigorously rubbing their hands with soap (including between their fingers and under and around their fingernails) is to have them sing the Happy Birthday song two times in a row. Depending on how often they wash their hands, you might eventually want to encourage them to sing softly, or sing it in their heads. Decrease the risk of infection by using a liquid soap in pump bottle instead of a bar of soap, and disposable paper towels for drying the hands and turning off the water faucet.
Acclimation And Handling
After bringing home and placing your turtle in its already-established tank, let it get used to its new surroundings for several days. It may spend the first couple of days closed tight in its shell, or may quickly withdraw when it sees you looming overhead or approaching the enclosure.
During this time, put fresh food out every day and make sure the water stays warm and clean. After a while, the healthier turtle will begin to explore its surroundings, and may begin to watch the goings-on around it. When you pick up the turtle, support its body with both hands. Turtles feel more secure when they can feel something beneath their feet; "swimming" in air is stressful to them. Let them feel your hands or fingers beneath their feet, not just their plastron (bottom shell). A two-handed carry will also help ensure that they will not suffer a potentially crippling--or fatal--fall.
When your children's hands are big enough, teach them the proper way to hold and carry the turtle and how to properly wash their hands after handling the turtle. If they have been playing with any other animals before they go to handle the turtle, they should wash their hands before handling the turtles, as well as afterwards.
Generally speaking, turtles are not appropriate pets for young children. The higher risk of infection aside, the care and feeding is more complicated than is generally thought, and the daily maintenance of the enclosure, enclosure apparatus and feeding soon gets boring for most kids. (Some adults, too, are dismayed to find that they can't just stick the turtle in a box or tank of water or let them loose in their yard, tossing lettuce to it once in a while.) When obtained for a child, the parent must acknowledge and accept their primary responsibility for the care of the turtle and routinely check it regularly for any signs or symptoms of illness.
Scientists believe that many cold-blooded animals, especially turtles and tortoises, can live almost forever as they show no signs of aging as they get older. They die from being successfully attacked by one of their few natural predators, from the poisoning, intolerably alteration or destruction of their natural habitat, and from improper care in captivity.
In Closing...
This article should be enough to help you decide whether a slider or other aquatic turtle is the right pet for you. For more information on care, more creative captive environments, breeding and other behaviors, be sure to check out the chelonian sites linked to my main Chelonians page and join a turtle-related e-mail list or two.
Sources:
Carroll, David M. The Year of the Turtle: A Natural History. 1991. Camden House publishing.
De Vosjoli, Philippe. The General Care and Maintenance of Red-Eared Sliders. 1992. Advanced Vivarium Systems, Inc.
EMBL Reptile Database: Emydidae: Trachemys
Obst, Fritz, et al. The Completely Illustrated Atlas of Reptiles and Amphibians for the Terrarium. 1988. TFH Publishing, Inc.
Pritchard, Peter C. H. Encyclopedia of Turtles. 1979. TFH Publishing.
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Aquatic Turtle Diet
(Taken from Mader’s Reptile Medicine)
Feed adults one to three times per week, hatchlings daily. Feed as much variety as possible.
Majority of the diet. Whole animals such as mice, earthworms, slugs, and thawed frozen goldfish, guppies, trout, bait fish, and some smelt.
Minority of the diet. Trout, Catfish , or Shrimp Chow (Ralston Purina), Hikari Chichlid Gold pelleted fish food (Kyorin Co., Ltd.), Reptomin Floating Food Sticks (Tetra), Tender Vittles or Happy Cat semi-moist cat foods (Ralston Purina), Gaines Burger semi-moist dog food (Gaines), various commercial turtle diets (not desiccated insects.)
Insects such as crickets, waxworms, mealworms, flies, moths, and grasshoppers.
Small amounts of lean raw beef, liver, gizzards, or chicken. Hamburger and shellfish not recommended.
In older omnivorous species gradually increase dark leafy greens (kale, romaine lettuce, cabbage, watercress, endive, bok choy, escarole, spinach), duckweed, and fruits (apples, oranges, carrot, grapes, melons, bananas).
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Red eared sliders need a diet that is a mixture of animal and plant material. However, young red eared sliders eat more animal protein so babies are started off on a diet that is more on the carnivorous side. It is still a good idea to offer vegetation to young turtles although they may not really start eating it until they get older (offering it early on at least makes it less likely they will shy away from trying it as they age). For adult red eared sliders, vegetation should make up a significant part of the diet.
Packaged Turtle Diets and Red Eared Sliders
Commercial pellets are fairly nutritious and are certainly convenient, and are beneficial since they contain a good mix of vitamins and minerals. However, as the saying goes, "variety is the spice of life." Offering a wide variety of foods is better than solely feeding a commercial turtle pellet as a variety of fresh food offers a wider range of nutrients in different forms (which may even be absorbed better when fed in the natural state).
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As well, feeding a variety of items is more stimulating to the turtle. Live prey items are especially enriching, as they give turtles an opportunity to exercise by hunting as they would in the wild. Generally, I would recommend limiting pellets to about 25% of the diet, making up the rest with items from the list below.
Items to Feed Red Eared Sliders
* Feeder Items: live feeder fish (guppies, goldfish, minnows), earthworms, crickets, waxworms, earthworms, silkworms, aquatic snails, blood worms, daphnia, shrimp, krill, mealworms. For very small turtles, prey may have to be cut into smaller pieces. Larger turtles can be offered larger items like tadpoles.
* Leafy greens: collard, mustard and dandelion greens, kale, bok choy. Head (iceberg) lettuce should never be feed as it contains very little nutrition, but dark green leaf lettuces (e.g romaine) can be feed sparingly
* Aquatic plants: in an aquarium or pond you can add aquatic plants on which turtles usually love to snack. Submerged plants like anacharis are often eaten, as are water hyacinth, water lettuce, duckweed, azolla (fairy moss), and frog-bit.
* Other vegetables: carrots (tops are fine too), squash and green beans.
Supplements
A good reptile multivitamin with calcium and vitamin D3 shoule be mixed with the food a couple of times a week. Also, an excellent way to provide additional calcium is by putting a cuttlebone in the turtle tank. These are often avaiable in the bird section, and they can be affixed to the tank or just floated in the water.
Red Eared Slider Feeding Tips
* Catching wild prey items is fine, as long as you are sure they are pesticide free. Same for vegetation.
* Vegetables can be shredded to make them easier to eat, especially for smaller turtles.
* Some experts recommend feeding fresh fruits such as bananas, berries, apples, and melon. However, this isn't really a natural staple in the red eared sliders diet and it may cause diarrhea. If used, fruit should be only in very small quantities.
* Don't feed frozen fish, or at least not very often, as freezing some types of fish increases levels of an enzyme in the fish that destroys vitamin B1.
* Cooked chicken and cooked lean beef don't offer balanced nutrition and these will foul the water very quickly. Use only as very occasional treats and feed only if you use a feeding tank outside of the main tank.
* Never feed raw chicken or meat due to the risk of bacterial contamination.
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eeding
(Red-Eared Sliders)
Variety of diet
It is very important to vary the diet of the turtle to assure its overall health. Do not feed it just one sort of food! You can feed her a variety of life foods (crickets, earthworms, aquatic snails, mosquito fish), fruits and vegetables, one commercial food, and vitamin supplements.
How often to feed
Your turtle will always be begging for food. Red-Eared sliders have a voracious appetite. Most turtle keepers feed their turtles one good size meal every two days. How much is a good size meal? until your turtle stops eating. Other keepers feed them twice a week. I personally prefer to feed them one small meal everyday. If your turtle is fat (skin overlaps on its legs when she tucks them in), you might want to examine what you are feeding it (if it has too much of a fat content) or you might start feeding it less often.
Commercial foods
There is a wide variety of commercial foods for turtles. You can feed her with commercial foods but you must vary the diet. Do not feed her ONLY commercial foods. Check the nutritional contents of the food. It should have less than 35% protein and the best commercial foods for the turtle are those that have both calcium and vitamin A. I personally like Tropical Magic from L&M Farms, but there are other good ones like Reptomin.
Vitamin supplements
You can give her some vitamin supplements twice a week. In most pet shops you can find a variety of powder or liquid vitamins specially made for reptiles. Make sure it has vitamin A, this is essential for they eye health of the sliders.
Fruits and vegetables
Most pet shops will tell you that sliders are carnivorous animals. Yes, they prefer to eat insects than plants, but that doesn't mean that they do not need to eat some veggies! They don't get enough vitamin A from just insects or commercial foods. You need to give it veggies with high vitamin A content (like carrots). Some turtles will also accept: lettuce, tomatoes, papaya, cantaloupe or bananas. Do not give her spinach or collard greens since they might cause her some digestive complications. If your turtle totally refuses to touch fruits and vegetables then you have two options: you have to absolutely give her vitamin supplements with high vitamin A content, or force your turtle to eat vegetables!
Aquatic plants
Some turtles will eat aquatic plants, then if you want to decorate your tank with them, make sure that those plants are not poisonous! Among the plants that the turtles will eat we find: water hyacinth, water lilies, elodia, duckweed. Feeding your turtles with aquatic plants is an excellent idea because they have a high content of vitamin A and also provide cover to your turtle.
Crickets
Crickets are an excellent food for turtles. They are a complete meal and it is so much fun to watch the chase! Most reptile stores carry crickets and they are relatively inexpensive. They can also be bought at bate shops. You can also try to raise the crickets yourself!
Earthworms
These are also very good for the turtle and very easy to raise. The only problem is... if your turtle is a baby, you might have to chop them up before feeding them to the turtle!
Aquatic snails
Nice natural meal that functions both as a meal and as a filter helper! The snails will eat some of the food your turtle doesn't eat! You don't need a big filtered tank to raise them!
Raw meat, fish or
chicken
Your turtle adores them... but they are not good for the turtle. Raw meat has too much fat and will cause obesity in the turtle. Besides, it doesn't provide the turtle with the nutrients it needs so much. Raw chicken.... beware of salmonella! you can give her occasionally a piece of COOKED chicken (with no spices at all). About fish, I would suggest feeding it with mosquito fish or guppies. You can occasionally give her other types of fish but try to avoid sea fish. You should totally avoid giving your turtle fish that has been previously frozen. This fish will inhibit the absorption of certain nutrients and might cause her long term problems.
Cuttle bones
They are just excellent! They are a good source of calcium to the turtle and at the same time it helps it sharpen its beak! Cuttle bones can be attached to the aquarium or just be left floating to let the turtle chase them! You can buy them at most pet shops since they are the same used by birds.
Your turtle refuses to eat
If your turtle refuses to eat an item that she previously enjoyed eating, don't worry. Sliders are finicky eaters and sometimes just want something different. Sometimes the problem is that you gave her something that she liked better and then she holds on until you give her again what she liked. If she refuses to eat one item, offer her different items. As far as she is eating 'something' there is no health problem to worry about. Suspect sickness only when she refuses to eat ALL food items that you have offered.
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Red Eared Sliders (Trachemys scripta elegans) Hatchling Care
by Gloria Anaité Paiz
They Have Just Been Born:
When they have just been born, they still have their egg tooth in their mouths and the yolk sac hanging out of their bellies. The egg tooth is what enabled them to open the eggshell, it will fall out on its own. The yolk sac is what fed them while they were incubating. DO NOT try to remove this sac, trying to remove it can kill the baby turtle. It is better to wait till it is absorbed on its own. Once it is absorbed, you will notice a split in the plastron. This will heal by itself too, you don't need to treat it.
Housing:
Set them on a 20 gallon tank per dozen turtles . Provide them with a dry land area and a shallow water area. Newborns need to master the art of floating and staying underwater for long periods of time. Don't assume that they will survive only with water. Newborn Red-Ear sliders can actually drown if you neglect them a dry land area. The water should be not too deep. As with adult sliders, newborns need to have their full spectrum light. So don't forget to include that in the tank. The full spectrum light will help the newborn shells to harden. Keep the water neatly clean. If you don't have a filter change the water every two days. This is very important since baby sliders are more prone to getting eye infections (that can leave them blind for life or even kill them) than adult sliders.
Feeding:
Once they are set up in their tank start feeding them. It is important to get them to eat. Start by offering them one by one all items on the proper slider diet (earthworms, crickets, sweet water shrimp, aquatic snails, water hyacinths, fruits, one commercial food). Note: You might have to 'chop' all of the food you offer since they are small babies. This includes chopping earthworms, meal worms, crickets. I know, this sounds disgusting but believe me, you will get used to after a while and it won't bother you anymore.
A Baby That Refuses to Eat:
If you have already tried all items of a proper Red-Ear slider diet, and the hatchling still refuses to eat, try offering a small piece of lean beef or ham. This is just for the purpose of turning on his appetite, once he starts eating you can try again to give him the items of a proper diet. If a week has gone by and the hatchling still refuses to it, you will have to force him to eat. Make a solution of beef blood and turtle vitamins and using a drop dispenser get the drops in between his lips.
How to Prevent Most Common Diseases in Slider Hatchlings:
Keep the water neatly clean, provide him with a full spectrum light, keep him warm (about 80 degrees), and add vitamin supplements to his diet. Make sure the supplements are high in vitamin A and calcium.
Eye Infections:
The most common problem in slider hatchlings are eye infections. These infections develop due to dirty water and lack of vitamin A. The treatment is easy: Change the water more often (get a filter if you can), add higher doses of vitamin A to her diet. Ask your pharmacist to prepare you a solution of 97% distilled water and 3% boric acid. Clean the turtles eyes with this solution twice a day. If the eyes are totally closed, try to open them so that the solution gets inside. Raise temperature at 85 degrees F. If the infection is severe take the turtle to a vet since she will need to be injected with vitamin A.
Colds:
If you notice your turtle has a runny nose, or is breathing with her mouth open, she might have a cold. Avoid breezes and cold drafts of air. Raise temperature at about 85 degrees and add extra vitamins to her regular food. If she doesn't seem to get better in a couple of days or you notice that she is swimming lopsided, take her immediately to a veterinarian! she might have developed pneumonia which can be fatal. She will need to be treated with antibiotics.
Information provided by Reslider's Swamp
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http://www.fishpondinfo.com/turtles/turpond.htm
Ponds for Aquatic Turtles
Liner versus Pre-Formed Ponds
Either type of pond can be used for aquatic turtles. The advantage of the liner is that you can form it any way that you like, including the ramps that turtles need to get in and out of the water. A disadvantage is that there is a slight chance a turtle's claws could puncture the liner. It is also often a little easier to bury a pre-formed pond than to use a liner. Pre-formed ponds cost a little more for the same volume of water. This only becomes prohibitive with ponds over about 150 gallons, where a liner is simply much cheaper. For temporary housing outside, a kiddie pool or livestock stock tank with something in the center for basking could be used. Cement ponds are also possible but few people make them anymore. They are usually bad for turtles because they can scratch their shells on the cement and then get infections.
Pond Size and Dimensions
Obviously, "the larger the better" holds true for any animal's accommodations but realistically, a pond that is primarily for water turtles should be in the 50 to 500 gallon range. This allows for easier cleaning and makes it easier to locate the turtles. The pond should have a variety of depths with ramps from one depth to another. For daily resting and sunning, there should be areas only a few inches deep so the turtles can be wet but have their heads free to breathe while resting. For swimming, any area about a foot deep suffices. If you plan to keep the turtles outside year round in cooler climates, they should have a spot that is at least two feet deep (or at least a foot below maximum ice depth) for hibernation (see hibernation). If keeping an eclectic natural pond with a mix of animals (turtles and fish as well as other animals), a pond in the 1000-3000 gallon range would be good.
Run Size and Dimensions
Land Runs
Aquatic turtles need to get out of the water. While they can do so on rocks and logs sticking out of the water, they should have the opportunity to feel the earth beneath their feet. Females need a sandy or dirt site to lay their eggs. Sometimes, the turtles want to walk around and investigate. The larger the run, the better it is for the turtles. Due to the effort and costs of fencing, it is more realistic to provide from 1 to 4 feet of ground away from the pond on some or all sides from the water.
Alternatives to Land Runs
If you would rather not have a run and fencing, there should be a shear cliff at least a foot high around the water. This could be accomplished with a rock wall or simply not filling the pond anywhere near the top. One can also make a stone overhang of the pond of at least 4 inches and then have the water at least 5 inches below that to keep the turtles inside. It becomes extra important without land to provide logs, rocks, etc. for the turtles to haul out and sun themselves. Many people make an island of rocks, styrofoam, or other materials in the middle of bathtub sized ponds. Larger islands in larger ponds require some ingenuity.
Fencing
Fencing is necessary if you do not want your turtles to run away (and they would). It also serves to keep out predators. You may need to even cover the top of the enclosure to keep predators out (chicken wire is fine for that), especially for small or rare turtles. The fence should be about 2 feet high above ground. For a more accurate determination of the height necessary, it should be 2.5 times the maximum carapace length for the species you are retaining. Another 6 to 10 inches of fencing should be buried underground as most aquatic turtles will dig. Run a board or some other opaque material along the bottom 4 to 6 inches up or so. This prevents the turtles from rubbing on the wire and getting heads or feet stuck in the wire. It also keeps baby turtles in better. Climb barriers may be necessary for turtles that can climb the fence or the corners. Stinkpots and wood turtles are two species known to be able to climb many feet up a fence. An ideal fence would be vinyl or PVC coated hardware cloth (rabbit wire) over a frame of pressure-treated wood. If a gate is installed, be sure to bury a board under it to prevent digging out.
For a few examples (photos) of outdoor aquatic turtle setups, go to this site.
Here is another person's outdoor turtle cage setup: Rita's Yard.
Places to Hide
Aquatic turtles need places to hide both in and out of the water. These provide places to get away from predators and each other. They also allow the turtles to regulate their temperature by moving to warmer or cooler locations during hot and cold spells. During the summer, they must have an area of shade to get out of the sun. Common hiding places include thick vegetation, large flower pots on their sides, hollow logs, and other similar hideaways.
Filtration, Cleaning, and Water Changes
Contrary to some people's beliefs, water turtles are affected by the same chemicals in water as fish. These include ammonia, nitrite, nitrate (high levels), low oxygen, pesticides, herbicides, etc. Thus, their ponds should have a good filtration system. This is especially true since, just like fish, aquatic turtles do most of their eating and defecation in the water. An especially good filter is needed. While an ordinary pond can do with an entire water turnover in two to three hours, a turtle pond should have turnover every half hour or so. Some people would say a turnover every two hours is fine but that really only holds true when there are few turtles in a large, planted pond. I would prefer a larger turnover with turtles in small ponds (under 500 gallons). For example, a 200 gallon pond should have at least a 400 gph pump. There should be a good pre-filter like a sponge or floss. This will need to be cleaned as often as it clogs, perhaps daily. The biological filtration should be adequate to keep ammonia and nitrite levels undetectable. An example setup might be a Pondmaster 700 (700 gph pump) in a 200-400 gallon pond. Remember, a 700 gph pump only pumps at 100 gph if it is old or clogged. If you can change about 10-20% of the water every week or two, that should be adequate if you do not have more than one turtle per 50 gallons or so. It is okay to change up to 50% of the water at one time as long as the temperature is close and proper amounts of de-chlorinator are added if one has city water.
Turtle Ponds in Winter
If the conditions are right, aquatic turtles can over winter in your pond. It will probably be okay if the following are true:
* The turtle is healthy and has been well fed.
* The turtle is over six months old. If the turtle is younger than that and has always been outside, then it probably will be okay but its chance of dying is greater than for older turtles.
* The turtle has had time to get used to the change of seasons and has been in the pond at least since mid-summer.
* The turtle is a species that is either native to your area or is native to an area with a similar or colder climate. A turtle from the amazon river will die when it goes below about 55 degrees F for example.
* The pond is deep enough that in the coldest winter in history for your area, there will still be a foot of unfrozen water under the ice. For Zone 6-7 where I live, the pond must be at least two feet deep with three feet being much better. In colder regions, it should be even deeper.
* The pond has some sort of aeration and/or water movement occurring during winter. Turtles gain oxygen during winter from the water through their skin. If the oxygen levels in the water are too low, the turtle suffocates. It will come up a few times on warm days to breathe through its lungs but if the pond is mostly frozen, the turtle cannot surface. In addition to requiring high levels of oxygen in the water over winter, the turtle needs low levels of carbon dioxide, hydrogen sulfide, and methane. The carbon dioxide is expelled by all animals in the pond. The hydrogen sulfide and methane are released as plant material, dead animals, etc. decompose in the water. These gases must get out. For my pond, if I had turtles, I would use the de-icer to keep a hole in the ice, my waterfall which I run all year but cannot be run in colder areas if there is a risk of it freezing up, and an air stone or aeration pump under the de-icer to broil the water. By that, I mean that it is bubbled to add oxygen and release the carbon dioxide, hydrogen sulfide, and methane.
* The pond did not have too much debris going into winter but did have some. A lot of debris will cause the hydrogen sulfide and methane problem mentioned above. If the pond cannot "breathe," these gases and the decomposition of a lot of crud can prove deadly for any and all animals in the pond. A little debris (large leaves mostly) is advantageous for the turtle to hide under or dig into (if you have a clay-bottomed pond or some mulm which is small pieces of leaves and decomposing stuff).
* The turtles are not fed leading up to winter. As the days grow shorter and colder, the turtles and any other animals in the pond eat less and less. This is how it was meant to be. Once it is below about 50 degrees F, turtles will eat basically nothing. Do not feed them during a true winter.
* The turtle has something to dig into to hibernate. Not having turtles in my pond over winter myself, I cannot say what works best. Others say to use trays of heavy sand or clay dirt, perhaps kitty litter (the 100% clay type with no additives). You could fill a cat litter pan with a mix of sand and clay for example. Also, the turtles will hide under large leaves so leave some debris in the pond, just not a ton.
For a ton more information on winterizing ponds, see my pond winterizing page.
Also, see my section on hibernation of turtles.
Hatchlings in Ponds
If you have wild turtles laying eggs around your ponds, you may chose to let nature take its course. If on the other hand, you have pet turtles who are breeding and living in their own pond, babies may be born. If left to fend for themselves, they are in grave danger from predators. A hatchling aquatic turtle is easily swallowed whole by a heron or raccoon. For this reason, if you wish to improve their chances, either enclose the pond or raise the baby indoors. The pond must be enclosed on the sides and the top as turtle-eating birds will come from above (and animals like raccoons that climb fences). To improve baby turtles chances, add lots of vegetation and places to hide in the pond. Larger turtles (especially snappers) may eat baby turtles so it is often best to raise babies away from adults. For temperate species that are often winterized outdoors or in refrigerators (in plastic shoe boxes with an inch of water and holes in the lid), it is not usually a good idea to put a newborn through a true winter the first year unless it has spent the previous season outdoors as for those born in the wild. It takes the babies time to fatten up for winter and get used to the correct triggers to tell them what to do. It takes time to find the right place to hibernate. Hatchlings thus born too late in the year (October or later) may not survive their first winter.
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http://tortoise.org/general/pondmak.html
Building a Pond
by Diane Levine
Small turtle pond
Small pond made from a sunken cement mixing tub
Photograph by Michael J. Connor
Has that cute little turtle in your aquarium grown far bigger than you ever expected? If so, maybe you are ready to build an outdoor pond. Building a pond can be as simple or as complicated as you choose. It all depends on the size of your yard, the amount of money you want to spend and the energy you want to expend. There are a few factors you need to keep in mind when planning your pond.
bullet You will need to secure the pond area with a low fence or wall so that the turtles can't get out and get lost. The pond area must also be secure from entry by tortoises that might drown if they get in. Depending on the size of your turtles you may need a covering of some kind to protect them from predators such as cats, crows or opossums. Where raccoons are known to prowl, the whole pond area must be caged.
bullet You will need to provide a basking area, a place that turtles can climb onto to get out of the water. If you expect them to nest, they will need also need a dirt area in which to dig their nests.
bullet You will need some way to keep the water clean.
bullet You will, of course, need something to hold the water.
The simplest outdoor pond (and the most common first pond for many turtle keepers) is a child's rigid plastic wading pool. You can set it on a flat surface (patio, lawn or ground), put in some rocks, bricks or a cinder block that extends above the water line for basking, add water and you're all set. For added security, a chicken wire covering will keep the turtles in and the neighborhood cats out. To keep it clean you can simply drain the pond and replace the water as needed, depending on the size and number of turtles.
Other above ground ponds that hobbyists use include specially constructed cement ponds, horse troughs, cement-mixing tubs, barrels, and even old bathtubs. With an outlet pipe placed through the bottom of the container and fitted with a spigot or valve these ponds can be drained easily. Of course, the above ground location means that the turtles are restricted to the inside of the container. However, such an arrangement may be ideal for turtle keepers who have limited space or who need to confine turtles such as hatchlings that could be at risk in more exposed locations.
When you are ready to get out your shovel and dig an "in-the-ground pond" you have three options. You can use a pre-formed container, a plastic pond liner, or you can mix and lay concrete.
To use a pre-formed container, you choose the container and dig a hole to accommodate its shape. Anything that holds water can become a pond. The child's plastic wading pool that you've been using as a pond above ground, might be your first choice. A plastic dish pan or a cat litter box will make a nice small pond. A plastic under-bed storage box will make a bigger pond. Cement-mixing boxes cast from tough plastic are available in several sizes and can be bought from your local do-it-yourself store. Fiberglass sheep or horse troughs make a fair-sized deep pond and are available at feed stores for under $100. California Art Products [1] makes a variety of beautiful fiberglass fish ponds, with and without waterfalls and built-in plumbing, priced from $100 to $1,500. They make custom orders to your specifications, or you can choose from their stock items. Peggy Nichols, the turtle lady of Long Beach, has ponds made of the fiberglass picnic umbrellas that McDonald's used to use for their outdoor tables. Her husband picked them up at a swap meet; she turned them upside down and dug them in.
If you do use a pre-formed container you may want to position it so that its rim is about 1-2 inches above the ground. This ensures that when the pond is filled with water (or if it rains) any overflow will drain off and debris around the pond will not wash back into it. Large smooth rocks or bricks placed as a decorative border around the container make it easy for the turtles to climb back into the pond and may help reduce the amount of mud and debris they carry back with them. They also offer convenient and much used pond-side basking sites. If the container is steep sided you may need to provide a ramp of some sort to help your turtles haul out of the water. Failing this, pieces of hardware cloth or poultry netting carefully secured to the side of the container can provide a "ladder" to help the turtles in climbing out.
A plastic pond liner looks like a very thick sheet of plastic bag material and comes in rectangular sizes from 8' x 13' to 23' x 30'. They are sold in aquarium stores, garden supplies or specialty stores. Sunland Water Gardens [2] recommends the Tetrapond liner (made by Tetra) which costs between $115 and $600. It comes with complete directions including how to calculate the size of the hole to dig, how to line the hole with newspaper, how to anchor and conceal the edges of the liner. In recent years pond liner kits have been available in warehouse stores, like Costco, for about $100, but they may not be as durable as the Tetrapond.
If you opt for a concrete pond you should look for waterproof concrete mix. Line the hole with newspapers and chicken wire to reinforce the concrete. Follow the directions on the bag for mixing the concrete...and work fast!!! You may want to build up the rim of the pond with decorative rocks set into the concrete. Lava rocks are porous and easy for the turtles to climb onto for basking. Be sure to cure the concrete properly before adding turtles. A gravel foundation under the concrete may be necessary if freezing frosts occur in your area, otherwise your pond may crack and leak the first winter!
You may want to add a pump and filter. Aquarium supply stores, garden shops and specialty stores like Sunland Water Gardens carry pond-size pumps and filters. However, remember that turtles cannot breathe under water. If they get sucked into a filter by a strong pump, they will drown. Also, fish pond filters which utilize open gravel trays through which the water is drawn will not work for a pond with turtles, since the turtles will dig into the gravel and stir things up.
A simple solution adopted by many turtle keepers is to invest in a good submersible pump or "sump" pump ($40 to $60 at Home Depot) that can be used to drain your pond as needed. Drained pond water is great for watering your plants, but may not be good for tortoises to drink, so use it outside your tortoise enclosure or yard.
Backyard turtle pond
Sliders bask by a sunken "fish" pond
Photograph by Michael J. Connor
The reward for your pond building efforts will come one day, shortly after your turtle has moved in. You will see it find a sunny basking spot, stretch out its legs, arch its neck and head up to the sun, and enjoy the outdoor air and unfiltered sunlight as turtles have done for millions of years.
more
http://www.ponddoc.com/WhatsUpDoc/WildLife/WetlandEnvironmentTurtle.htm
Creating a Backyard Wetland Environment for Aquatic and Semi-Aquatic Turtles
If the intent is to create a home for native turtles, such as the popular Painted Turtle, that exist in and around water you must offer an environment that is designed for the way they live. Mother Nature designed her home for these creatures by creating wetlands. Wetlands consist of a body of water, some shade, some sun and plenty of plant growth. An added benefit of creating this type of environment is that it will attract aquatic frogs, dragonflies, wild birds and other wild life.
If possible, the wetlands garden should be located where part of it is in shade and part is in sun. Turtles love to bask in the sun. This practice is nature’s way of helping the turtle digest his meal. On the other hand, shade is much appreciate at the hottest part of the day! If no shade is available naturally, shelters that appear natural can be constructed by placing a flat rock where it can form an overhang or by providing nooks and crannies where turtles can go to escape the hot, summer sun.
The body of water can be a pond with a sandy bottom and a slow-flowing stream or waterfall to keep the water fresh and aerated. It should be stocked heavily with as many species of water plants indigenous to the climate as one can find.
The water in the pond cannot be stagnant or it will transform into a cesspool of sorts so, to prevent that from happening, plan to install a gentle stream or waterfall. The movement of the water will do two things. It will prevent the pond from becoming a breeding tank for mosquitoes and it will aerate the water. If a submersible pump is used make sure it sits a few inches above the floor of the deepest part of the pond in a protective basket to keep leaves and sand from continuously clogging it up.
The depth of the pond should vary from one end to the other and is not required to be but a few feet at the deepest since this pond is not intended to house koi or goldfish. Turtles use the sand and fallen leaves on the bottom of the shallow part of the pond for winter hibernation and as a place to cuddle at night during warm weather.
Don’t skimp on the quality of the liner. 45 mil EPDM rubber is the best to use because it’s thick and flexible and able to withstand a lot of abuse by the pond’s wild inhabitants. Allow about a foot of extra liner on all sides of the pond and mound the edges under the liner with a ridge of soil to keep the edge of the liner above water level, thus preventing leaks. It’s okay and a good idea to line the bottom of this type of pond with rocks. We would never suggest that for koi ponds and ponds built to house any type of pond fish because the debris that gets trapped between the rocks does promote fish disease and parasitic infestation. That’s not a factor with a wetlands pond if there are NO fish inhabitants. Rocks and pebbles can help keep the water clear and hide the black liner.
A portion of the floor of the pond where it is shallow should be dedicated as a sleeping area and that’s where the thickest sand and/or debris should be accumulated. This is where Painted Turtles will spend their winter hibernation. It is not uncommon to find a bullfrog or two in this area of the pond because bullfrogs and greenfrogs both love to burrow in the sand.
The waterfall or stream is generally built after the pool has been installed and will sit slightly higher so the water will spill from one level to another. Too fast a flow will continually stir up the sand and debris that collects on the bottom and the water will never stay clear. A ball or knife valve installed into the line that leads to the top of the water return will allow flow rate adjustments.
It’s perfectly okay to hide the liner edges of the pond and the waterfall or stream by covering it with the same soil that is present on the outside of the pond. Most water plants tend to grow aggressively and, if planted directly into the moist soil on the sides of the pond or stream, will soon take over. Overgrown streambeds create huge leaks because it grows so thick that it will literally re-route the water so it can seep out over the edge of the liner. It’s best to contain aggressive water plants by placing them in pots. Use hardy plants that come back year after year and soften the edges of the pond and streambed. Cattails are excellent as well as pickerel rush and marginal grasses. Water bamboo is extremely invasive and care must be taken to keep it trimmed back so it doesn’t jump pot and take over your pond.
Duckweed, water hyacinths and water lettuce are all floating plants that can literally grow completely over and choke a pond in one summer. Introduction of these types of plants in natural wetlands has been a major concern if the wetlands are located in warmer climates where hyacinths and lettuce do not die back for the winter. We warn against introducing these plants in any ponds located in Central to Southern Georgia — or anywhere that doesn’t experience a freeze in winter.
Heavily plant around your wetland area. Use hardy plants indigenous to your area. Bushy plants and grasses provide even more shelter during hot, summer days.
One must decide whether to build a barrier around the wetland garden or not. It’s up to the individual’s taste. Barriers prevent turtles and some frogs from escaping so it becomes more of a refuge area. If the pond is built to accommodate an older pet turtle or to insure the turtles placed inside stay inside it is necessary to build a barrier. This can be done inside or outside the pond.
To keep an aquatic or semi-aquatic turtle within the confounds of the pond the lip of the pond must be the barrier. Think like a turtle. Can it climb out? Make the lip higher than the length of the longest turtle and it can’t have any footholds where turtle can get a grip. Turtles are excellent climbers and will soon be on their way. The lip might best be constructed so that it overhangs the pond all the way around. If a turtle is never to leave a pond there are two important rules of construction that should not be forgotten.
Turtles like to bask in the sun and must have a rock or log on which to climb and rest. If they cannot dry themselves out periodically a fungus can form that can destroy the shell of the turtle. Locate a basking spot or two in the middle of the pond where there is plenty of sunshine and they can’t reach the edge.
Make the pond wide enough to give them plenty of elbow room. Ten feet should be a minimum.
Another way to prevent turtles from leaving the garden is to build a border around the garden. This helps to prevent some predators from being able to get in as well as desired inhabitants from leaving. Materials such as landscape timbers, chicken wire, stacked stone and cement bricks can be used as long as care is taken to block attempts to climb. The wall should be taller than the length of the largest turtle and an overhang will help to secure the border. Turtles love to dig and can literally tunnel underneath any border placed in their way. The wall should extend underground at least a foot.
Many wetland gardens are constructed to attract neighborhood turtles and frogs. No barriers are used, only enticement! Turtles cannot resist a perfect wetland home. Sandy soils offer places to dig. Leaves and debris offer places to burrow and root. Grasses offer places to hide. Diving rocks jutting from the water at pond’s edge invite the turtle into the pond and allow a quick get-away should a predator approach. Fallen logs in shallow water provide sunning spots. Flat rocks in the water and outside the pond warmed by the sun are little turtle heavens! We are animal lovers — animals of all kinds. A wetland area pond is perfect for wild birds and frogs as well as aquatic turtles but it’s not for fish. Do the fish a favor and build a goldfish or koi pond especially for their needs instead of adding them to this one. Enjoy your pond and have fun with the wildlife that will be attracted to it!
Since this article was written I received an email from Anita at the Gulf Coast Turtle and Tortoise Society. (www.gctts.org) In this email she gave me a little more information that is very important information to know. Her words were very eloquently put so I am including them as written: "...Female turtles must have easy access to land to lay eggs. Without land access, they may retain eggs and become seriously ill and die. Even if not kept with a male, females may try to lay eggs. Confining mature female turtles to a pond with no land access could kill them. Also, we never recommend sand as a substrate because it can be ingested and impact the digestive tract."
good luck