I am unsure of the type of turtle you have so unfortunately my research in regards to your question had to be very general. I hope that it might help...
INTRODUCTION
This care-sheet is a general guide to the captive care of North American box turtles in the genus Terrapene. Box turtles are generally hardy animals that can thrive in captivity when properly cared for. They often have distinctive personalities and can learn to respond to their keepers. They are also very long-lived animals. It is possible for you and your box turtle to have a long and happy relationship together if you provide a suitable environment and proper care.
Box turtles have a hinged plastron (under shell) which allows them to close up tightly inside their shells. A healthy box turtle will have a good weight, and will react when picked up either by struggling to escape or by hastily withdrawing into its shell. A newly acquired box turtle should be closely monitored for signs of illness and given time to adjust to its new surroundings. This is especially true of box turtles obtained from pet stores. These are often ill and may suffer from heavy infestations with internal parasites. To prevent the outbreak and spread of infections, newly acquired box turtles should be quarantined for at least 3 months before being introduced to others.
HOUSING
Ideally, box turtles should be kept outdoors in a backyard or in a purpose-built enclosure. Fencing around the yard or enclosure must be secure enough to protect the turtle from dogs and other potential predators. Box turtles can dig under or climb over fences. Adding a lip along the top of the fence and trimming plants and vegetation growing alongside will reduce the risk of your turtle climbing up the fence and escaping. If raccoons and skunks occur in the neighborhood the enclosures must be covered. Plant the enclosure with small shrubs to provide shade, and with edible plants such as strawberries. Provide moist leaf piles, compost heaps and rotten logs for the turtle to hide, sleep and hunt in. During the summer, box turtles are most active in the early morning and late afternoon, and after rain. In dry areas the enclosure should be sprinkled with water daily to maintain adequate humidity. A dish of water large enough for the turtle to soak in must be available AT ALL TIMES.
If kept indoors, a warm (75° F, 24° C), moist, roomy terrarium should be provided. It must be furnished with a dish of water for drinking and soaking and a hide box or shelter. Potting soil (screened for glass, plastic and other contaminants), newspaper or indoor/outdoor carpeting can be used for the terrarium floor, but it must be kept clean. Corncob bedding and wood shavings are dangerous and should be avoided. The terrarium should be misted daily to maintain the humidity. Box turtles will often defecate in water and so their water bowl should be cleaned daily. Box turtles housed indoors should be allowed outside in natural sunlight when possible and allowed to exercise frequently. To augment natural sunlight indoors, a full-spectrum fluorescent lamp such as a Vitalite®, Sylvania 50 or Chroma 50 light should be placed over the terrarium.
FOODS AND FEEDING
Box turtles tend to like early morning feedings. They are omnivorous in the wild, and eat a substantial amount of insects and other invertebrates as well as fruit and some vegetable matter. They should be offered animal matter (night crawlers, snails, slugs, worms, crickets, Purina trout chow or low fat cat food) at least twice a week. They enjoy fruits such as tomatoes, apples, cantaloupe, strawberries, and blackberries. Some box turtles will take greens, leafy weeds, grape leaves and mixed vegetables. Sprinkle the food with a calcium source such as calcium carbonate or calcium lactate once a week, and with a vitamin preparation such as Superpreen® or Reptovite® once a month. Snails are a particularly nutritious food favored by most box turtles. However, you must not offer snails that may have come from an area where snail bait has been spread. If in doubt, purge the snails by maintaining them for one week on a diet of romaine lettuce or weeds from your yard before feeding them to your turtle. NEVER use snail bait or other pesticides in or near areas where box turtles are kept.
BREEDING & INCUBATION OF EGGS
Generally male box turtles have longer tails than females, and depending upon the particular species, may have a concave plastron and bright red eyes. Captive box turtles may mate at almost any time of year, although courtship peaks during the spring and fall. Box turtles usually nest between the months of April and July. Nests are often dug at night. The female will lay 3-8 elliptical eggs, about 1 1/2 inches long, into the 3-4 inch deep flask-shaped cavity. Some females lay multiple clutches of eggs spaced at 3-4 week intervals.
Box turtle eggs can incubate successfully if left in the ground, but precautions may be needed to protect them from extreme climatic conditions and predators.
Many hobbyists enjoy incubating their turtle's eggs artificially. When the female has finished laying, open the nest and carefully remove the eggs. A clean paintbrush is a useful tool for uncovering the eggs. Box turtle eggs can be successfully incubated in a variety of ways, but a few basic rules should be followed: (1) do not shake, rotate, or turn the eggs; (2) keep the temperature at about 80° F (27° C); (3) maintain the humidity at about 80%.
These conditions can be met by placing the eggs on a suitable substrate (moistened vermiculite, sphagnum moss, and damp paper towels have all been used with success) inside a suitable container (plastic shoeboxes or plastic margarine tubs are commonly used, with the lids kept on to help maintain the humidity). The container is placed in an incubator or in a location that remains slightly above room temperature such as a cupboard on top of a refrigerator or above a water heater. The eggs are checked regularly to make sure that the substrate remains damp. The eggs should hatch in 50-90 days. If you need more information on incubation please contact the Club.
HATCHLING CARE
It may take several days from "pipping" (the time when a hatchling first breaks through the shell) to the actual emergence of a box turtle from its egg. It is usually best to leave the hatchling alone as it tries to free itself from the egg other than gently spraying the eggs with tepid water to prevent dehydration and reduce the risk of egg-shell adhering to the hatchling. Once the turtle has hatched, you may notice a yolk sac attached to the underside. It is important that this sac is not ruptured so hatchlings should be left in their incubation containers for a day or two until the yolk sac is absorbed.
Once the egg sac is absorbed the turtles can be moved to a suitable terrarium. Some keepers provide an indoor set-up similar to that described above for the adults using a substrate of potting soil. However, because hatchlings are susceptible to dehydration many keepers house their hatchling box turtles in a more aquatic environment. A common set-up consists of a plastic sweater box that contains about one half inch of water in which are placed "islands" of wood, rock, or sphagnum moss that the hatchlings can easily climb out on. Alternatively the shoebox can be tilted so that one end contains water and the other end is dry. A small plastic planter cut in half can be added to provide a hide box. The water must be changed daily.
Hatchling box turtles are very shy and may not eat until they are several weeks old. Offer the food in a place where the hatchling will feel secure while eating. Some hatchlings will take Purina trout chow or cat food immediately. The best food to offer hatchlings that are reluctant eaters is live food such as small worms, slugs, or sow bugs. Over a few days, introduce other foods such as Purina trout chow, cat food and small pieces of fruit. Placing whatever the turtle is already eating on a new food item will increase the likelihood of getting them to eat it.
Hatchling and young box turtles should be kept away from adult turtles and other pets. If kept outside they should have their own enclosure where they are protected from predatory animals and birds. You must provide places for them to hide and a dish of water dish, large enough for them to soak in. Soaking stimulates a box turtles appetite and helps with elimination.
HEALTH
A healthy box turtle will maintain or gain weight, have bright, beady eyes, eat well, produce firm, well-formed stools and be generally active and alert. The eyes and nose should be free of any discharge or mucous, and the inside of the mouth should not be pale or white. Box turtles are susceptible to several potentially fatal infectious diseases, and all newly acquired turtles should be watched closely for signs of illness and kept in quarantine. Box turtles that are light in weight or not perfectly healthy should be examined by an experienced veterinarian. Unhealthy turtles will need to be isolated indoors, kept warm (85° F, 29° C) and humid, fed regularly, and not allowed to hibernate.
Abscesses are a common problem in box turtles, often occurring as lumps or swellings on the side of the head near to or in the ear. An abscess should be lanced and the contents removed. The wound should be flushed with Betadine, and packed with a topical triple antibiotic.
Dry, cracking or flaky skin is usually a sign of malnourishment, dehydration or lack of humidity. It can often be remedied by improving the quality of the diet, providing an environment more appropriate to the needs of the animal and allowing the turtle to soak in water more often.
Bot-fly maggot infestation is seen occasionally, particularly in turtles captured from the wild, and appears as small bumps on the fleshy parts of the body. The bumps have a hole in the middle. Flushing the holes with Betadine may cause some of the maggots to surface where they can be picked off with tweezers. It may be necessary to enlarge the hole so that the many brown/yellow maggots can be removed with tweezers. Unless you are experienced with such treatments it is recommended that the box turtle be taken to a veterinarian.
Cuts and scratches should be cleaned, treated with antibiotic, and the turtle moved indoors until all wounds are healed. Untreated wounds may become infected or become infested with maggots, and this can be fatal.
The shell of your turtle should be smooth and hard. Box turtles raised in captivity occasionally suffer severe shell deformities. This is usually due to poor husbandry and is often a product of indoor housing and being fed a nutrient poor diet. Box turtles that are limited to indoor terrariums are at risk for shell rot, although this is more common in water turtles.
Healthy box turtles generally have voracious appetites although this does vary seasonally. Some female box turtles may loose their appetite just prior to egg legging but regain it once the eggs are laid. Some males will loose their appetite during breeding season, as they are too preoccupied to eat. A box turtle that refuses food for several days should probably be taken to a veterinarian for clinical evaluation.
Box turtle feces should be firm and hold their shape. Persistent loose or runny stools are signs of poor nutrition or illness. The diet should be improved and a fecal sample should be examined to determine if internal parasites such as worms or protozoa are the cause.
It is important to note that turtles can hide their illness for quite a while before showing symptoms. Once you see signs of illness don't wait to see if your turtle will get better on its own, it will probably get worse. A sick box turtle needs to be examined by an experienced veterinarian to determine what is wrong as soon as possible.
HIBERNATION
In the fall, as the days become cooler, box turtles will begin to eat less, bask less, and appear sluggish. Some will bury themselves under roots of plants, into a compost pile or dig down into the dirt. To aid in the protection of the animal, leaves and grass clippings may be placed over the buried turtle. Some keepers prefer to provide a suitable area for hibernation such as a dog kennel with a floor of loose soil or dry leaves. An occasional rain is not a threat to a hibernating box turtle, but protection may be needed against severe freezing and flooding. Because of their high moisture requirements, box turtles should never be placed in a dry box for hibernation. They may dehydrate and die. Box turtles reemerge in the early spring.
Only healthy, well nourished box turtles should be allowed to hibernate. A box turtle that has not built up sufficient fat reserves may not live through hibernation.
http://www.tortoise.org/general/boxcare.html
This care sheet is intended only to cover the general care of this species. Ongoing research to best develop a maintenance plan for whichever species you are caring for is essential.
The Eastern Long-neck Turtle (Chelodina longicollis) is found in eastern Australia from just south of Rockhampton in Queensland to Victoria. It is a carnivorous species that in the wild mostly eats aquatic insect larvae, small invertebrates, tadpoles, frogs and occasionally fish. This species is one of Australia's most terrestrial turtles, spending many months per year on land, the species has been observed feeding on land and the analysis of gut contents has found terrestrial insects. It is important to understand that this is a cold climate turtle. In the wild it is active and feeding in water at 12° C.
Eastern Long-necked Turtles are often sold when very small, about 3cm shell length, however, this species will grow to a shell length of 20 - 30cm. As the turtle grows, depending on the size of aquarium you have, it may need a bigger home. Turtles in general are long term pets. They can easily live for 100 years or more so this is a pet you may have to leave to your grandchildren. I say this not in jest but to make you aware of the commitment you must make to this species. Understand that, like all reptiles, this animal is not a mammal. They do not take kindly to and suffer stress from excessive handling; you should not handle reptiles at all unless necessary. Handle your turtle gently but firmly - remember he may try to kick himself out of your hands. A good method for many turtles is to hold them from behind with your hand under the plastron (belly). Don't ever drill a hole in the shell to tether the turtle - this is cruel as the shell is living bone. Wash hands before and after handling and between animals- this is basic animal hygiene. Seek veterinary advice if your turtle becomes ill. If the basics of turtle care as listed below are followed illness should be minimal.
Housing Inside: The aquarium needs to be a suitable length - a 3 or 4 foot aquarium will suit the turtle till it is old enough to go outside. I find a substrate of coral rubble particularly suitable, as it will also help buffer the pH level. An undergravel filter can be used but I tend to use either straight through system (continuous water replacement) or large multi layed power filters with one chamber filled with bio-balls, talk to the local aquarium for details. The water depth must be more than the width of the turtle's shell - if it tips over on it's back and can't right itself it will drown. I find a depth of between 15 and 20 cm suitable; it should be deeper if possible. Provide a totally dry basking area for the turtle, preferably sandy rather than rock. Long-necked Turtles need be able to dry out completely. The basking area may be a rock but should not be abrasive, nor should it be too smooth as the turtle needs to get on and off easily. Adding extra pieces of glass using silicone glue is an easy way of doing this, again see a local aquarium shop for advice on this. There needs to be plenty of ventilation - too much humidity will cause health problems, hence do not use the glass lids supplied with your aquarium, replace them with pegboard or a similar material.
Housing Outside: When the turtle is 3 years old it is better for it to live outside. Remember that turtles can walk quite a distance in a short time. You will need an area fenced with material other than wire for your turtle - the turtle can damage its snout by pushing at the wire. The fencing will need to be about 30cm into the ground - turtles can dig. A non-abrasive pond of suitable depth that the turtle can easily get in and out of needs to be in the enclosure. Also provide plants and ground cover for the turtle to hide in or get shade. A dry place needs to be provided as well - curved driftwood is good - so if it rains for days the turtle can be dry if it wants. Make sure the enclosure is positioned to receive plenty of sunlight and that it is totally predator proof.
The most important factor for turtle care apart from diet is water quality. Buy a marine pH test-kit and test water weekly it should be 7.5 to 8.2, the higher the better. Buffer water as necessary using a marine aquarium buffer. A filtration system or continuous water replacement is essential. Using a power filter that allows for multiple substrates is the best method. You need to use bio-balls and filter foam, use charcoal as well if you desire. The best way to look at keeping a turtle is that you have a marine aquarium with less salt. You want high pH, high conductivity (salts), low ammonia and nitrite. Of course these animals do not breathe water but they are prone to skin and throat infections that are increased in poor water. Add some salt to the water, not table salt, use the marine salt mix available at aquariums for making seawater. I use about one cup per 50 litres. Remember to do this at water changes also. See table 1 for water quality parameters suitable for this species.
Temperature: Turtles, like all reptiles, cannot function without correct temperatures being provided. These animals adjust their body temperature using behaviour, ie, they move around and bask or sit in an area with the correct temperature allowing the environment to warm or cool them to their preferred body temperature. Different temperature ranges are required for the water and for the air.
Water: Remember that this is a cold climate species and still operates at 12oC. however, only in optimal condition can the species survive at this temperature. I recommend a temperature of 16-20oC and most houses can keep an aquarium at around this temperature throughout the day. However, unless you have central heating you should have a good quality heater in the aquarium to ensure the temperature does not go too low. It doesn't matter if the water drops or rises a degree or two now and then. Use a thermometer to monitor the water temperature. The heater should have a guard on it so the turtle can't sit on it and get burnt.
Air: One end of the aquarium should be for basking. Never have direct sun on the aquarium - it will get too hot. A suitable heat light may be provided (juveniles may not tend to bask much) with the temperature under the light 22 - 26oC. The light needs to provide heat that spreads (no "hot spots") and don't splash a heat light or it will explode - both of these can cause burns. The light should be well out of the turtle's reach and do not use white light or turn it off at night. For most of my reptiles I use red or blue lights as these can be left on all the time and are basically used for heat only.
PH 7.5 - 8.2
Hardness 1 cup salt mix per 50 Litres
Temperature 16 - 20°C
Lighting: Lighting is used for heat and light. Heat was discussed earlier.
Light: the turtle must have a day/night cycle. Placing the aquarium near a window for normal light is a good method or if the aquarium is in a dark position a white incandescent light can be used. Make sure any white light is turned off at night.
UV: turtles must have UVA and UVB light in correct ratios to help in the production of vitamin D that is essential for healthy growth. However, I have found through many trials and have conferred on this with colleagues in the USA who keep turtles that UV lights do not work on aquatic turtles. They do not work through glass, plastic or water. These lights are not as strong as the sun and are refracted and weakened by their path through the water. I now supplement vitamin D in all my reptiles and have ceased the usage of UV light for turtles. As sunlight is the best UV source - especially for juveniles - if you keep the turtles outside, they will not need these supplements.
Feeding: It is too easy to overfeed your turtle. If you over feed your turtle the shell of the turtle will grow too fast at the centre of each scute (shield of the shell) causing the scutes to become pyramid shaped. Deformities in the shell will result and the shell won't be as strong as it should be. The frequency of feeding should be 2 times a week and the amount roughly 5 to 10 bite size pieces per animal at each feed. This species of turtle prefers to eat in the water, however, I have had individuals that prefer to feed on the land. Variety is important. Long-necked Turtles are totally carnivorous. Never give food that is still frozen to the turtle. Commercial foods are available. A 50/50 diet of whitebait and prawns (soaked for an hour to remove salt) is another option. Also add bloodworms, blackworms, garden worms, crickets, flies, moths and other insects to the diet. Red meat has very little nutritional value to a turtle and mince should never be offered - it is too fatty. Remove uneaten food after an hour. Give calcium and vitamin supplements weekly. Commercial pre-mixed products are available. Remember the turtle must be warm (water temperature at a minimum of 16oC) for it to be able to both eat and digest food. As they get older they require less food; my adult turtles are fed once per week. Over feeding will cause exceptional growth there are a number of signs of this. A 3-year-old wild Eastern Long-neck turtle is around 5-8 cm in shell length. Also this species always has a black shell, if the shell is brown with clear growth rings, it is growing too fast.
General Health: Don't clean algae off the shell as this may damage the shell and cause infections. If your turtle gets an infection on it's skin or shell it needs to be treated with a suitable medication. Follow instructions. Most of these medications are applied by removing the turtle from the water, gently dabbing the infected area with a cotton wool bud and allowing to dry at least 20 minutes. Do this daily until condition starts to clear. Signs of infection to watch for are a white fluffy growth especially around the claws, eyes and tail or white to grey patches appearing on the shell which can go red if the condition continues. Do not confuse infections with sloughing (the natural shedding of the skin and shell). Here the skin will peel off in a clear to grey film and the shell scutes (sections) will peel. Do not attempt to peel the skin or shell yourself - this can cause damage.
Hibernation: Only healthy turtles in good condition should hibernate and it is recommended that turtles be about 3 years old (shell length 5-8 cm). The turtle can be allowed to hibernate inside or outside. Don't feed within a month of hibernation time (ie. stop feeding at end of March for the Canberra area) as food may not be digested and will rot in the stomach. Do not wake the turtle while it is hibernating, as it will use up fat reserves.
Outside: If hibernating outside the enclosure must be suitable (if not, bring inside) - plenty of ground cover, plants, and suitable soil for digging and a pond at least 60cm deep, with plants and a layer of mud - the turtle will choose where to hibernate. The turtle must not be exposed to frost and must be able to stay dry if it wishes. Most turtles will choose to hibernate in the water. Make sure no predators (eg. rats, dogs, cats) can get to the turtle during hibernation.
Inside: If your turtle lives in an aquarium and is an indoor pet there is no need for it to hibernate. If your turtle is an outdoor pet and your enclosure is not suitable for hibernation you can put the turtle in an aquarium without water in a cool spot indoors near a window for natural light (your turtle will know how long to hibernate by the length of daylight). The turtle must be below 10oC to hibernate safely. Cover the turtle in a deep layer of leaf litter with all heating and lighting turned off.
One point on hibernation, unless you are trying to breed the species there is no need to hibernate any reptile. Do not kid yourself that you are allowing it to go through natural cycles. The moment you bring it into captivity that has ceased. I do not kid in this and it is a serious matter. It will not cause any health or phychological problems to the turtle if it is maintained in a non-winter environment all year round. Hibernation is only necessary to bring the species into a synchronised breeding cycle.
Last word: A warning. I personally consider that this is one of the most difficult turtle species to keep (and I can extend this to worldwide). Many long-term keepers of this species agree with me. Do not take the husbandry of this species lightly and the often-recommended tropical setup of this species will eventually kill it.
http://www.chelonia.org/Articles/easternlongneck.htm
GENERAL: This care sheet was prepared to assist you in providing proper care and maintenance of your Gopherus agassizi and Gopherus berlandieri tortoises.
There are three species of tortoises found in the United States: 1) the California Desert Tortoise (Gopherus agassizi), 2) the Texas Tortoise (Gopherus berlandieri), and 3) the Florida Tortoise (Gopherus polyphemus). Both the California Desert and the Texas Tortoise are now protected by state and federal laws and cannot be removed from their natural habitats. All three Gopherus species are banned from sale in the State of California.
For those now in captivity, and those born in captivity, a State registration is required and can be obtained from this Society or the California Fish and Game Department. There is no fee to register your tortoise. For marking purposes, use the numbered sticker you receive when you register the tortoise. It should be attached firmly to the underside of the carapace (top shell) above a rear leg.
It is forbidden by law to return captive tortoises to the desert because they may carry diseases to the wild population. Also, after captivity they lose their ability to survive in the wild. If the need arises to find a new home for your tortoise, please contact this Society to arrange for placement.
SAFETY: Tortoises MUST be protected from ALL DOGS. No matter how well trained or friendly or small or old a dog may be, it must never be allowed to be with a tortoise (or any turtle). Raccoons, foxes, and coyotes are also dangers to large tortoises, while ravens and even blue jays will kill small tortoises, unless they are protected by screening over their outdoor enclosure. Rats have been known to chew on hibernating tortoises.
Tortoises MUST NOT have access to swimming pools, ponds, or spas. As they are unable to swim, they will drown. Tortoises must be able to adjust their body temperature by moving in and out of the sun. Shade must be provided to prevent overheating. Other hazards include: poisonous plants (see our list); pesticides, herbicides, and chemical fertilizers (do not use them); stairs; storage areas; garages; equipment. Desert tortoises are feces eaters. Be vigilant and remove animal feces found in the tortoise yard, especially from meat-eating animals.
NEVER cut the grass with your tortoise loose in the yard. Wire fencing (e.g. chain link) must have a 12" to 18" high border of wood around the inside perimeter to prevent necks and legs from becoming entangled. Gates should have heavy spring closures and a 12" to 18" board across the opening, just in case. Fencing should go into the ground to prevent tortoises from digging out or other animals from digging in. Make sure he cannot climb out of the enclosure.
Climbing in corners or on stairs can cause a tortoise to tip onto his back -- this can be fatal. Handling, especially by young children, can be very stressful. Dropping a tortoise can cause serious injury.
The shell of the tortoise is sensitive to touch and rough treatment. Hammering on or drilling into their shells is painful to the tortoise. Some tortoises enjoy being petted on the shell or on the top of their head. DO NOT use any paint on their shell, as it can cause shell deformity and death.
Because males will fight, almost without exception, they must not be housed together after reaching sexual maturity. A partition or fence must be maintained between them. Otherwise, serious injury or even death may occur.
TORTOISE YARD: Desert tortoises MUST have a yard. They cannot survive in an apartment setting. The tortoise yard must be outside with sun and shade available. It must have grass for the tortoise to eat (Bermuda is recommended). It must also be large enough for the tortoise to roam and graze, but you must be able to find the tortoise each night to put it under cover (either in your house or in its house). It must have trees, bushes, and/or a spacious shade house.
If you have ice plant in the tortoise yard, it should be fenced off so the tortoise cannot disappear. All poisonous plants must be removed or fenced off from the tortoise.
FENCING: It is absolutely necessary to fence tortoises in to prevent them from wandering. It should be a fence that they cannot see through and should be AT LEAST 24 inches high. Chain link is especially bad. They will stick their heads through and think they can go through it, which can cause damage to their necks and legs. Fences should also be buried into the ground at least six inches, in case they decide to dig.
In some cases, an option may be to create a wide border (at least 12 inches) made of bricks, pavers, or rocks along the bottom of the fence to discourage or prevent digging.
SHELTER: As our coast is much damper than the desert, you must bring your tortoise into your home each night before the sun goes down, or, preferably, provide him with his own outdoor house.
The floor of a closet makes a simple indoor house for a tortoise. Place cinder blocks up on end and put boards on top of them. The boards then become your closet floor for shoes or whatever, and the tortoise can sleep under the boards between the space created by the cinder blocks. Be sure to spread sufficient newspaper on the closet floor prior to allowing your tortoise to enter the area.
Alternatively, a shelter must be provided outside. We recommend that you build or buy a doghouse type of enclosure with a floor, and make sure it is waterproof. Over the doorway place several pieces of plastic that have been slit from the bottom to allow the tortoise easy access. Place a 15 or 25 watt red-colored bulb in the top of the house on the inside. The bulb should sit about ten inches from the top of the tortoise’s shell. Leave the bulb on at all times, as this will burn out much of the humidity. The plastic will keep the air inside the house warm and dry, and will help keep the damp air from entering.
The house must sit above the ground and should be large enough to allow your tortoise movement to seek a proper temperature. It is very important that you check your yard each night to see that your tortoise is inside its house. Many tortoises contract colds and pneumonia because they are allowed to sleep in damp conditions and/or breathe damp air outside. Remember, these are DESERT animals. It is not wise to let them burrow into the ground in our non-desert climate. It is extremely detrimental to let them get wet in the rain. Although some tortoises enjoy walking under the sprinkler, this should be allowed only when it is hot and sunny.
FEEDING: It is essential for your tortoise to graze in your enclosed yard. Many grasses and weeds are healthful (as long as they are not sprayed with insecticides), and natural sunlight is also necessary. Be sure to read our care sheet: PLANTS THAT POISON, NO. SDTTS-070 in order to be certain that all undesirable plants are either removed or fenced off. To supplement their diet, we recommend natural grown plants such as dandelions, hibiscus leaves and flowers, rose flowers and young leaves, wandering Jew, nasturtium leaves and flowers, grape leaves and the leaves and fruit from zucchini, yellow crookneck, summer, and banana squash. Do not forget cactus and succulents once in a while, especially Aloe Vera and the pads and fruit from the beavertail and prickly pear cactuses. REMOVE ANY SPINES! Be certain the above are not sprayed, and do not use systemic insecticides or fertilizers in or around your tortoise yard.
At least 90% of desert tortoise food should consist of grasses, weeds, and flowers, as described above. However, some tortoises that have not been accustomed to grazing may need to be gradually introduced to these as food sources. Fresh grass clippings could be sprinkled over his usual diet, for example. His level of nutrition must be maintained.
If you must purchase some of your tortoise food, the following are recommended: dandelion greens, collard greens, and endive. These may be used occasionally: corn on the cob (raw), tomatoes, broccoli, and rappini. Fruits should be given sparingly, or as an occasional treat: strawberries, melons and their leaves (except watermelon), apples (seeds removed - they are poisonous). Do not give bananas. Romaine lettuce can be used as a treat or to mix with other items to encourage variety in the diet. Do not use iceberg lettuce. Avoid the following as they negatively affect the calcium needed by the tortoise: spinach, chard, cabbage, peas, beans, and sprouting seeds. NEVER give dog or cat food to a desert tortoise. Alfalfa rabbit pellets soaked in water can be given occasionally.
For tortoises that refuse to eat a variety of foods and insist on eating only lettuce, blend a variety of fruits and vegetables in a blender and spread on the lettuce. You may also try placing thin slices of fruit and vegetables on their lettuce for a sandwich effect, or you may chop up a salad of healthful greens and mix with the lettuce. Over a period of time, slowly cut down on the lettuce content until your tortoise is completely weaned from lettuce and is eating healthy foods.
Tortoises that graze outdoors and have a healthy diet do not require great amounts of vitamin and/or mineral supplementation. They do, however, tend to need more calcium than may be easily obtained in the diet alone. It is recommended that you occasionally sprinkle their food with calcium carbonate and/or offer boiled and crushed chicken eggshells, cuttlebones, and/or calcium blocks. The need for extra calcium is especially high in females and in hatchlings. Ask your veterinarian if further supplementation with appropriate vitamins and/or minerals is indicated.
WATER: Tortoises MUST have fresh water available to them at all times. (Filtered water is preferable to tap water.) This should be provided in a dish (such as a flowerpot saucer) that can be sunk into the ground. The dish should be large enough for the tortoise to sit in while he drinks. In addition, desert tortoises should be soaked weekly during their active months to assure adequate hydration. (It is thought that this may help prevent bladder stones.) Use a container he cannot climb out of. Water should come to the edge of the carapace. Use water that is about the same temperature as the tortoise, and soak him for about 30 minutes.
Tortoises seem to love running water, pooling from a hose or from a small sprinkler that attaches to a hose. But they do NOT swim, so do not expose them to deep water.
ANTS: Many times ants getting into the tortoise food creates quite a problem. Ants not only accumulate on and eat fruits and vegetables, but they can also irritate the tortoise. Certain species of ants can even kill tortoises. You must be vigilant and eliminate ants when they are seen around the tortoises and the food dishes. Pouring boiling water on the ant nest is one way. Another method to keep ants out of the tortoise food is to place the plate containing the food into a larger plate that has been filled with water. This way the ants cannot cross the water to get to the food.
HIBERNATION: Usually in October or November, the normal tortoise functions will slow down and it will stay in its house for longer periods of time. When it does not come out for about ten days, and you have checked to ensure it is healthy, you can be relatively sure it is hibernating. We recommend three methods of hibernation, depending on your facilities and the number of tortoises in your possession:
Let the animal hibernate in your house, in a cool place such as the closet, as described previously.
Place the animal in a newspaper-lined cardboard box, place a sheet of newspaper over the tortoise and place the box in your garage or any cool place, above the floor level to avoid drafts.
Purchase or build a thermostat and install it in the line that provides current for the lights in the tortoise house. Change the bulb from 25 watts to 60 watts and adjust the thermostat to a setting that will maintain about 50 - 55 degrees F. in the tortoise house. Stability of temperature is important.
Be sure NEVER to allow your tortoise to hibernate in a hole in the ground. The dampness in the ground and the possibility of drowning are serious in our coastal areas! Also never let a tortoise hibernate if he has been ill at any time during the previous summer. Keep him awake, warm and eating all winter, until he has displayed good health for at least 12 consecutive months.
Be sure to check your tortoise periodically during hibernation. Every week, touch a foot and listen for sounds of congestion when he pulls his head in. It is also recommended that you soak your tortoise monthly during hibernation. You must WATCH HIM CAREFULLY while he soaks so that he does not drown!
If he should wake up, offer food and water and replace him to continue his sleep. About March or April, your tortoise should emerge from his house or become active in his storage box. He should then be placed near water, grass.
BREEDING: After hibernation and all through the summer, the male will attempt mating with the female. This consists of bobbing his head and circling around her, biting at her head and shell edges to make her pull her head in. When the position is right, he will climb onto her back to mate. Do not be alarmed, as this is normal behavior. Once fertilized, the female can lay fertile eggs for up to 5 years!
Be alert to the possibility that a male might “court” a female with such persistence and gusto that she becomes intimidated, stops eating and drinking, and in extreme cases may not leave the tortoise house. Such stress must be prevented. Prevention is easily accomplished by separating them for a period of time.
EGG LAYING: Usually in late spring or early summer, the female will begin pacing, looking for the right spot to lay her eggs. She may decrease or stop eating at this time and may seem quite agitated. Sometimes it is very helpful if you prepare one or more areas in your yard by loosening the soil then softly packing it back down. Do this in areas where she has shown special interest. (If she does not eventually lay the eggs, you may need to have her checked for egg binding through an x-ray.)
When ready, she will dig a hole with her back legs, deposit her eggs into the hole and cover them up. Do not disturb her while she is doing her maternal duties. After she leaves the area, it may be a good idea to soak her to rehydrate her. Tortoises do not provide care for their young.
If the eggs are left in the ground or incubated, they may hatch. Care of hatchlings is a huge long term commitment. Unless you are experienced in raising hatchlings and have good homes and knowledgeable people lined up in advance, then we recommend that you dig up the eggs immediately and destroy them.
AILMENTS: Tortoises are especially susceptible to respiratory ailments. Some of the signs to watch for are runny nose, loss of appetite, decreased activity, and gasping. These can also be signs of mouth rot, bladder stones, or parasites. These indications are warning signals that something very serious is wrong with your tortoise, and, if left untreated, he may die. Someone experienced in treating tortoises should be consulted promptly. Contact this Society for the name of a veterinarian in your area experienced in treating tortoises. A pre-hibernation checkup with your veterinarian is recommended at least every other year.
KEEPING DESERT TORTOISES WITH OTHER SPECIES: Desert tortoises should only be kept with other desert tortoises and Texas tortoises. They should NEVER be allowed to live with any other species because of the danger of spreading diseases.
TAKING CAPTIVE TORTOISES OUT OF CALIFORNIA: When people have had a desert tortoise for a long time, they begin to think of it as part of the family, and it is natural to include it into the family move to other parts of the country. There are however, several obstacles:
a. California State law prohibits the removal of California desert tortoises from the State.
The weather here on the southern California coast is not ideal for them, but it is better than the weather in most of the rest of the country. We have received many letters from people that did not listen to our advice, took the tortoise and watched it go through a very long illness before dying. Those taken to the East Coast, Midwest and southeastern United States, suffer the worst. If you have to leave this area, for the tortoise’s sake, be sure to leave it with someone where it can survive.
http://www.sdturtle.org/CALIF%20DESERT_TEXAS%20TORTOISE_CARE_SHEET.htm
Hope this helps.... Good Luck~