The initial, start-up price including all the essentials will be at least $100. Here is a caresheet I have written myself based on personal experience and tons of research.
Housing ~
Finding a good enclosure for your leopard gecko is very important since it is what they will spend their whole lives in.
Housing Leopard Geckos Together:
Leopard geckos are solitary animals by nature. Males should never be housed together under any circumstances, as they will fight. Females will get along nicely given they are provided with adequate space (addressed below). Make sure whatever leos you house together are introduced as hatchlings, preferably, or as juveniles, or under one year of age. Prepare to separate the geckos if any major fighting occurs.
Type of Enclosure:
There are many kinds of enclosures you can choose from when housing leopard geckos. The most common enclosures used are glass aquariums. Vivariums with mesh metal screens all around are acceptable as well. WHICHEVER ENCLOSURE YOU CHOOSE MUST BE LONGER THAN IT IS TALL, since leopard geckos are terrestrial (ground-dwelling) lizards. They can not climb, and they can hurt themselves if they try--and try they will.
Size Requirements:
There are various opinions on what should be the minimum tank size for leopard geckos. Some say that 10 gallons is suitable for one or two geckos, while others argue that 20 gallons is the minimum for one gecko. Perhaps the most agreeable and realistic size minimum is 10 gallons per leo. Putting two leos in one 10 gallon tank will most likely result in fights over territory. 20 gallons is more than enough for one gecko, as they are not incredibly active lizards and spend a lot of their time resting in a hide. If you are using an enclosure other than a glass tank the size minimum for one leopard gecko is about 20 inches long by 10 inches wide and 10 inches tall, or about 50 x 25 x 25 cm.
Substrate ~
The substrate that you use for your leopard gecko is the material that is used on the floor of the vivarium. It collects feces and urates and is what they spend all of their time walking, eating, and sleeping on.
Loose Substrates:
Sands, wood chips, moss, corn cob, walnut shells, and other loose substrates should be avoided at all costs since they are so risky. Consumption of the substrate by the gecko will result in impaction, or a blockage of the intestines. Wood shavings are especially harmful as they are rough on the leo’s delicate skin and can harbor bacteria.
Mimicking their Natural Habitat:
Some justify using sand as substrate for leopard geckos by stating that it mimics their natural habitat, since they are desert animals. This is not true at all. These geckos do come from the desert, but not the kind with yellow colored sand blowing around and sand dunes everywhere. Leopard geckos come from the deserts of Pakistan and Afghanistan. A simple Google search of the terrain of these areas shows that they consist of hard-packed dirt, stone, and sparse vegetation. There is hardly a risk of impaction for these lizards when living in the wild because the sand and dirt is tightly packed into the ground, rather than the loose sand sold and used as substrate.
The Best Substrates:
This is why I strongly recommend using stone tiles such as vinyl, ceramic, or slate as substrate for your gecko. They are attractive looking, 100% safe for the leo, and help recreate their natural habitat. I would say that tiles are the best possible substrate for leopard geckos. Paper towels and week old newspapers are great substrates as well, being inexpensive, easily removed and replaced, and completely safe. They are unnatural, but still a great choice for those on a budget.
A Word on Reptile Carpet:
Reptile carpet is not the worst substrate out there, but I still do not recommend it. The small fibers that stick out of it easily catch toes, nails, and even teeth. Like wood shavings, it harbors bacteria and is unsanitary. Not to mention it is unattractive looking (in my opinion) and unnatural. There are other substrates than you can use that are a lot better and less risky than reptile carpet.
Hides ~
The “hides” in the enclosure are the areas that your gecko will retreat to during the day when it is sleeping or whenever it wants shade or security. These can be anything from cut up tissue boxes, empty cottage or cream cheese containers, paper towel tubes, Tupperware containers, reptile decoration hides from a pet store, and more. You need a minimum of three hides per leo in the vivarium—a cool hide, warm hide, and moist hide.
Cool and Warm Hides:
You will need one hide on the cool side of the vivarium. The gecko will retreat to this hide whenever they get hot on the warm side and need to cool down. You will also need one hide on the warm side of the vivarium, over the under tank heater. The gecko will most likely spend most of its resting time in this hide as they are cold blooded and need the warmth.
Humid/Moist Hide:
The humid hide should be placed in the center of the vivarium, in between the cool and warm hides. Fill this hide with warm, damp paper towels, cypress mulch, peat moss, or vermiculite. Make sure to spray the bedding with warm, clean water every day to retain moisture. The material should be damp, but not sopping or soaking wet. The gecko will spend its time in this hide when it begins to shed to loosen up the skin and help it come off easier.
Feeding ~
Leopard geckos are insectivorous, meaning they will only eat live insects. A small number of leos will eat fruit and vegetables, but this is rare. These food items should make up about 5% of the diet of geckos that will accept them. Baby food including meat, fruit, and/or vegetables can be fed occasionally as well by placing a drop on the gecko’s nose, encouraging them to lick it up. Of course, this is optional. The best possible diet you can give your gecko is one with tons of variety.
Primary/Staple Insects:
Mealworms, crickets, and dubia roaches are all excellent staple feeder insects for leopard geckos of all sizes and ages. Superworms, locusts, and kingworms are great staple insects for adult leopard geckos only due to their large size. Mealworms, superworms, and kingworms are all relatively high in fat, which makes them a great primary insect for underweight leos and breeding females.
Treat Insects:
“Treat” insects are those that should be fed to leopard geckos only about once a week. Waxworms, phoenixworms, and butterworms are good treats for leos of all ages and sizes. Waxworms and butterworms are very high in fat, so they’re excellent for underweight, juvenile, and breeding female leos. Phoenixworms, also called calciworms, are exceptionally high in calcium, making them a fantastic supplement to your gecko’s diet, reducing the risk of MBD, or metabolic bone disease. Treats that are too large for juveniles but fine for adults are grasshoppers, woodlice, earthworms, silkworms, and hornworms.
Insects to Avoid:
Insects caught outside or in your home should never be fed to your gecko as they will likely contain traces of pesticides and/or carry parasites. Any insects that generate light, such as fireflies, are toxic to leopard geckos. NEVER feed your leo a prey item that is larger than the size of their head.
A Word on Feeder Mice:
Mice that are larger than the pinkie stage and/or have fur are way too large for any leopard gecko and should NEVER be fed to them. Pinkies are commonly used for breeding females to help them gain weight. Pinkies are not as unhealthy for leopard geckos as fuzzies or larger sized mice, but are still not a good idea. They are vertebrates, meaning they have bones, unlike insects, which should be the entirety of the leopard gecko’s diet. Mice are very difficult for leos to digest and are hard on their bodies. Waxworms, butterworms, and mealworms are great substitutes for pinkies as they are healthier for geckos and provide just as much fat content.
Juveniles (under 1 year) should be fed every day, adults (over 1 year) should be fed every one to three days. Make sure all insects are gutloaded with oatmeal and fresh fruits and vegetables at least 24 hours before feeding. Dust the insect with calcium and D3 at every feeding.
The humidity should be 40-60 percent. If it ever gets below 30 percent, raise the humidity by using a bigger water bowl and misting the cage with clean, warm water. If it ever gets above 70 percent, lower the humidity by using a smaller water bowl and increasing ventilation to the tank. You will not need a mister or a dripper.
You do not need any sort of lighting, but what you do need is an UTH (under tank heater). Place it underneath the ottom of the vivarium on the left or right side. You can use a red or purple overhead heat lamp if you want, but it is not necessary. I do use one though.
You can use plants in the viv, but you don't have to. Fake plants are the safer option, but real plants are more natural. Either is okay. Just make sure whatever live plants you put in there aren't sharp or pointy, fuzzy, or sticky.
Shopping List:
- 10 gallon tank: $25
- Mealworms or crickets: $5
- Water bowl: $2.50
- UTH (under tank heater): $20
- Leopard gecko: $20
- Feeding tongs: $2.50
- Calcium powder w/D3: $10
- Peat moss: $5
- Hydrometer/thermometer: $10
- Paper towel substrate/homemade hides: Free and easily accessible!
Some more great caresheets:
http://www.reptilesmagazine.com/Care-Sheets/Lizards/Leopard-Gecko/
http://www.goldengategeckos.com/careleopard.pdf
http://www.leopardgecko.com/leopard-gecko-care
I think this about covers everything. The answers to all your questions are up there somewhere, lol.