A few things you should know about your iguana
NEVER FEED YOUR IGUANA CRICKETS!!!!! IT MAKES THEM AGRESSIVE!
- There's a lot of things you'll need to do to take care of your iguana properly. To get you started, here's some stuff you may not know about your iguana....
- Iguanas are arboreal, which means that in the wild, they live in trees. This means that your iguana will want some stuff to climb around on.
- Iguanas are herbivores, which means that in the wild, they eat plants. This also means that you should try to avoid feeding them stuff like meat, dog food, cat food, eggs, cheese, and other foods that are bad for your iguana. (You'll learn more about the right foods later.)
- Iguanas need special ultraviolet lighting, which is also called UV lighting. They can get this with special light bulbs and by sitting in direct sunlight.
- Pet iguanas and their cages should be properly cleaned on a regular basis.
- Pet iguanas that are kept in a cage, need to be in a cage that is VERY big. Your iguana will not be happy or healthy in a cage that is too small.
- Iguanas are cold blooded, which means they need to be in a warm environment. This means you'll need to provide heat for your iguana. (You'll learn more about providing heat later.)
- Iguanas need to have proper humidity to help them shed and help them stay healthy. You can give your iguana proper humidity several ways, which we'll talk about later.
- Iguanas should see a good veterinarian at least once a year. Just like people, iguanas should get a check up every once in a while, to make sure they're healthy.
Taking care of your iguana - Okay, so here we go! It's time to learn how to take care of your iguana. This is just the basic stuff you'll need to know, so it's important that you keep learning as much as you can about iguanas and iguana care.
The first thing to keep in mind is that green iguanas, if taken care of properly. will grow rather large. Many people buy a baby iguana on impulse, and then when it starts to grow larger than they were prepared to handle, they don't want it anymore. In our experience, these iguanas usually end up for sale in the papers, or pawned off onto local herp societies, who already have their hands full trying to find suitable homes for some of the lesser known, harder-to-care for reptiles. Remember that iguanas do not only grow as large as their tank. When they get older, they will usually either need a large, custom-built cage, their own "iguana" room, or, if you choose, free roam of the house with a well-heated basking spot.
A good size tank to start out with for a baby iguana is a standard 30 to 50 gallon tank. As your iguana grows, it will probably be necessary to build or have built a custom cage. The standard for deciding on cage size is one and one half times the length of the lizard in length, two thirds the length of the lizard in width, and the length of the lizard in height. We have found higher is better. Iguanas love to climb and love to be up high.
There are several things that can be used for cage bottom cover. Orchid bark, artificial turf, indoor/outdoor carpeting, newspaper, and alfalfa pellets are all useful for this. Bark or wood chips can tend to attract mites and other insects, so keep this in mind. Cedar chips can be toxic, so avoid using these.
Branches set up for climbing are a necessity. Iguanas are arboreal (tree-dwelling) lizards. The branches should be chosen according to the size of your lizard, and easy for your them to climb and lay on. We do not recommend hot rocks. They are not a natural way for the iguana to absorb heat and they can cause serious burns. Hot rocks should never be used as a replacement for adequate lighting.
PROPER NUTRITION:
Iguanas are herbivores or folivores, which means that they are plant eaters. They eat leafy greens, fruit, and fresh, uncooked vegetables that are grated and chopped to a size appropriate to the size and age of the iguana.
The most important thing, however, is to feed your iguana a VARIED diet using the following, well-rinsed foods:
Greens (40%-50% of the daily mixture):
Mustard Greens - Collard Greens - Dandelion Greens - Turnip Greens - Rapini - Mulberry Leaves - Grape Leaves - Hibiscus - Escarole (outer, dark green leaves only - do not feed pale, bleached leaves).
Vegetables (40%):
Green Beans - Peas - Turnip - Rutabaga - Parsnip - Butternut Squash - Acorn Squash - Sweet Potato - Zucchini - Carrot - Lima Beans - Cassava - Jicama - Chayote
Fruit and Flowers (10-20%):
Papaya - Pear - Strawberries - Raspberries - Mango - Grapes - Apricot - Peach - Cantaloupe - Casaba and Honeydew Melon - Kiwi - Figs - Nasturtium - Hibiscus - Rose Petals (no pesticides)
Occasional Foods and Treats (10%):
Kale - Parsley - Beets/Beet Greens - Banana - Apple - Rose Petals - Spinach - Pasta - Bok Choy - Broccoli - Cauliflower
Do not feed your iguana large quantities of broccoli flowerettes, corn, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, bananas, grapes, carrot, or tomatoes because they contain higher amounts of phosphorous, oxylates, phytates and other components that can hamper your iguana's healthy growth processes.