Well, top priority before taming is to rehabilitate. Unless you purchased them as CBB, they're probably wild caught--and that means they have internal parasites, they're stressed, and they've been subjected to dehydration and starvation. Check your husbandry carefully, and make sure that absolutely everything is perfect, and get fecal exams done by a vet so they can be wormed. Once they're healthy and are good weight, and growing well, THEN worry about taming. Until then, minimal handling is best--they need less stress. The right heat, humidity, and UVB, and plenty of cover will help them succeed. Remember, most imported reptiles die from the ordeal, often within weeks of reaching their new home, if they even make it there. Many more succumb to parasites in the following year.
There are many guides online for creating salads for water dragons. If your water dragons are hatchlings, they probably won't be interested in salad. Feed them gut-loaded insects no longer than the space between their eyes. Dust them liberally with calcium powder, and once a week, with a good reptile vitamin supplement. Crickets, mealworms, wax worms, butter worms, silk worms, phoenix worms, roach nymps, isopods--these are all acceptable food items. Feed as wide a variety as possible.
Once the dragons are about half grown, they will start to add vegetable matter to their diet. Green iguana or bearded dragon salad recipes are probably the most suitable additions. When I kept these guys, I found that they loved colorful edible flowers, such as dandelions and nasturtiums. Small amounts of fruit such as strawberries will also be appreciated. It may take your dragon a while to begin eating salad--refer to the tips on getting bearded dragons started for advice on convincing a stubborn dragon to eat his veggies. I found mine more receptive if I offered the items on the same tongs I used to feed them animal foods.
At this same time, the dragon will be large enough that you can expand the animal part of its diet as well. They will take large roaches, zophobas worms, and nighcrawlers. They will also eat strips of tilapia fish (fresh is better than frozen), and young mice or rats of appropriate size. Gutload prey when possible, and dust everything with calcium or vitamin powder.
Taming the dragon.
Once it's healthy and growing, the first step is to get the dragon to understand that when you open the cage, good things happen--you're bringing food. Once it is comfortable with that routine, begin offering choice food tidbits on tongs. Eventually, place your hand in the cage while you do so. You can begin to lure the dragon onto your hand using food. When it's comfortable with this, then I would say you can begin handling.
Be patient. Hatchling reptiles are FLIGHTY--they must be, to survive. As they grow older, they automatically become calmer if they have had some exposure to humans. Sometimes it's better to go slow and wait until they're more mature before rushing in to pick them up.
Always approach from the side, and grasp the dragon gently. Coming in from above makes you look like a predator. (Front-opening cages may help with this). You may need to restrain it until it stops wriggling. Once it's relaxed, relax your grip. Be prepared to restrain it again, as dragons can flee explosively when they feel they've had enough. Keep sessions short--long enough that the dragon becomes calm, but not so long that it becomes stressed out and cool due to lower room temps. As the dragon gets more used to the routine, it will be less likely to flee.
Water dragons aren't particularly interested in being handled, and never will be, but they can get used to it. While not as personable or intelligent as green iguanas, they are full of personality (and are also half the size, lol). They grow quickly, and will reach adulthood in 3 years--if you don't have an adult-sized cage already, it's time to start planning. The bigger, the better! These active lizards love height, they love to dig, and they love to swim, so that means plenty of space. Use a plastic cat pan or even a children's wading pool for water, because you'll have to scrub it frequently--as you have probably already noticed, they prefer to eliminate in their water, and that must be cleaned promptly.
Be sure to set up the cage so that no sticks are pointing upward, and a dragon jumping from the highest point will always have a safe landing. Their response to disturbance is to launch themselves downward--usually toward the water. They will continue to do this even when tame if you take them by surprise.