Im looking at buying a Tortoise, What things do i need?

Question

Hi, im wanting to buy a tortoise but unfortunatly know nothing about them. Therefore i am doing a hell of a lot of research before i buy one.

One sort of things would i need to keep one alive! Im thinking of it living indoors. Anyone know where i can get a decent starter pack?

Many thanks :) Im in the U.K btw :)

Answer 1

Here's a great site to read about all kinds of tortoises and their care:

http://www.chelonia.org/care.htm



Here's the list of essentials:



1) The smallest tortoise is the Egyptian tortoise and the minimum enclosure size for them is 2ft x 3ft. The minimum enclosure size for other common tortoises, like the Russian, Hermans, or Greek, is 4ft x 2ft. Other larger tortoises, like the Red foot, Yellow foot, and Marginated, will require substantially larger accommodations. Tortoises in general, need a lot of floor space and can quickly go stir crazy in a small enclosure. It is better to build a "turtle table" for a tortoise, as finding an aquarium or other large enclosure is expensive and not practical. Here's some instructions on how to build one:



http://www.unc.edu/~dtkirkpa/stuff/table.html



2) UVB lighting; fixture and bulb. (Zoomed makes the best long tube style fluorescent bulb to date, and T-rex makes the best MVB, or mercury vapor bulb.) MVB's will emit heat and UVB light all form one bulb. Otherwise, UVB and heat will be two separate bulbs. Bulbs should be replaced every year after which time UVB will no longer be produced even if visible light still is. UVB should be available for 10 - 12 hours a day. UVB is used in a diurnal (active during the day) reptile's metabolism, food digestion, and the absorption of calcium in their bodies.



3) Heat lamp; fixture and bulb. Basking temp should be 90 - 95 F, for most tortoise species. Basking temp should be available for 10 - 12 hours a day.



4) Substrate. A few inches of organic potting soil, pet moss, or coconut coir bedding, like Jungle bed or Bed-a-Beast mixed equally with regular children's play sand can be used with most tortoise species; it should be mixed 50/50. Keep lightly moistened and well mixed to maintain humidity at 50%. Compacted, soaked bedding will breed bacteria and fungus.Change substrate monthly. Depending on species, another substrate may be recommended.



5) Diet. Most tortoises are herbivores; they only eat veggies and grasses (some species require more grasses than veggie.) Here's a good site to use for appropriate veggies and nutritional info: http://www.beautifuldragons.503xtreme.com/Nutritionframeset.html



Examples of grasses in a tortoise diet include timothy hay, orchard grass, and bermuda grass. You can find these in the small pet section of any pet specialty store. Be sure to soak the grasses to soften them a little as they will be dried and tough to eat.



6) Calcium supplementation and multivitamin supplementation. Plain calcium is best, as you can feed as often as you want (you can get plain calcium by buying a cuttle bone and shaving it to a powder. You can even leave a cuttle bone in the enclosure for the tortoise to chew on; it helps maintain the beak.) Calcium with vitamin D3 added should only be fed twice a week to prevent D3 overdose. A multivitamin will help to fill in any small gaps in the diet; feed weekly. Sprinkle on food stuffs to feed.



7) Hides. There should be at least two in the enclosure. You can use ones from a pet store, or you can use an old mixing bowl or fake plastic plant planter with a door cut in it and turned upside down.



8) Water dish. It should be large enough for the tortoise to get into, but shallow/not deep enough to completely submerge. Tortoises will often defecate in their water dish, so it is important to keep it fresh and clean. You may never see the tortoise drink, as most tortoises are good at getting water from the food they eat.

Answer 2

Well done for wanting to research before committing yourself.



Here's my standard reply to this question.



The Testudo Horsfieldii, or Horsfield Tortoise which is commonly known as the Russian is the most northerly ranging tortoise in the wild. Other popular species are the Testudo Hermannii (Hermann) and the Testudo Graeca Graeca (Mediterranean Spur Thigh)



The Hermann is the smallest growing to about the size of a side plate and with a life span of around 60 yrs. The Horsfield & Spur Thigh will grow to around the size of a dinner plate and can live for around 120 years.



They are a hibernating species and are strictly herbivorous. They should be fed on weeds, weeds and more weeds. Dandelion, hawks beard, hawk bits, hedge mustard, prickly Ox tongue, greater plantain, clover, dead nettle, chicory, chickweed, sow thistle, vetch and common mallow are among the weeds which should constitute their entire diet. A little fruit, such as a small strawberry, can be given as a treat once every week or two. DO NOT give them root vegetables, legumes, excessive salad leaves, brassicas (kale, cabbage, sprouts, broccoli etc. These are high in oxalic acid, which prevents the absorption of much needed calcium.), spinach and, on no account, ever give them animal protein such as dog/cat food.... IT CAUSES SHELL DEFORMITY AND CAN KILL. You will also need a calcium and vitamin supplement.



Do not keep your tortoise in a tub, tank or vivarium, it must be kept on a tortoise table during the colder months, but is far better off out in the garden in natural sunlight, weather permitting. But beware, the Horsfield is an accomplished digger, so ensure your garden is tortoise proof or you make a tortoise proof enclosure.



While on the tortoise table you must supply a basking lamp and UV lamp or a combined lamp, such as the 'Megaray'.



You can download a comprehensive care sheet from the Tortoise Trust here; http://www.tortoisetrust.org/Downloads/T…



Another thing I must relate to you is this from my previous posts:



PLEASE, PLEASE find a reputable local breeder, or better still, get your tortoise from a re-homing service.



Sadly it is often the case that tortoises bought from pet shops are imported from former eastern block nations and claimed as 'captive bred' or 'farmed'. The truth of the matter is they are usually illegal wild caught Hermann, Spur Thigh, Marginated tortoises. Sadly, the Horsfield (Russian) is not yet protected by CITES, but at the rate they are being poached, they soon will be. They will not be examined by a vet or have their stools checked for parasites.



A vast number of these tortoises will die from stress and/or abominable treatment by the poachers and dealers. As few as 1 in 10 will actually make it as far as a pet shop and many of these will die within their first year in captivity.



See http://tortoise-protection-group.org.uk



This is not a problem confined to the UK or Europe, it is a worldwide problem.



While I understand and sympathise with people who buy from a pet shop, in the belief that they are freeing a poor unfortunate animal from 'Hell on Earth', your purchase serves only to fuel the trade. For the one tortoise you buy, perhaps another 9 will die for the pet shop to replace their stock.



ALWAYS check that a pet shop bought animal is certified as being bred in captivity in your own country, not an import.



I do hope you will follow my advice.



PUT AN END TO THE DEMISE OF THE WILD POPULATION AND THE MISERY OF THE TORTOISES POACHED FOR THE PET TRADE.

Answer 3

a russian tortoise is probably one of the best starter tortoises - they are pretty easy to care for and relatively small.

This website is brilliant if you want to learn about their care; http://russiantortoise.net/





here are some tortoise tables and starter kits to order if you like:

http://www.netpetshop.co.uk/p-30273-tortoise-starter-kit-tortoise-table-and-accessories.aspx?CAWELAID=482660378

http://www.888reptiles.co.uk/productdetails.php?ProductID=4221&ProductGroupID=1919

http://www.reptiles.swelluk.com/reptile-supplies/reptile-housing-452/tortoise-enclosures-1003.html



(remember that even though a lot of starter kits you might find may come with glass/wooden vivariums these are very bad for torts. They have poor ventilation and being able to see out but not get out seriously stresses the animals. Tortoises tables are definately the way to go - they look very smart as well so they could be a nice addition to a living room or something)





Good luck :)