Scientific Name: Hemitheconyx caudicunctus
Distribution: West Africa (Nigeria to Senegal)
Lifestyle: Fat-tails are nocturnal, so realize that they will be asleep during the day (to view your lizard during its waking hours, use a red light bulb. They can't see red!). Be sure to provide them with an appropriate light cycle with a little over 12 hours of "daylight" at a set time each day. Seasonal changes in the lengths of daylight may be offered, especially if you are planning on breeding your lizards. A full spectrum light is not required. The vitamins acquired from sunlight by other lizards must be provided in their diet (see Nutrition).
Fat-tails do not require a cage-mate, although they are very interesting to watch in groups of two or more. Only one adult male should be in a tank, but multiple females are fine.
Size: Approximately 8 to 10 inches. Males tend to be larger.
Color: The Fat-tail is known for its velvety appearance. There are two pattern morphs, one with a white dorsal stripe (which runs from the top of the head to the end of the tail) and one without. There are several color morphs: bands of a rich chocolate brown and a lighter brown are the most widely seen. Tail: The original tail of a Fat-tail gecko is long, thick and banded. As the name implies, this is where they store their fat. A gecko tail must be treated carefully, as they can be released at will to throw off a predetor or dropped due to some other trama. A gecko who is missing a tail must be kept warm and well fed, as it will have nowhere to store its fat until another is regrown. The new tail will be short and stumpy.
NUTRITION
Food: Crickets and mealworms are a good staple diet, though wax worms may be offered occasionally to add fat. Pinkie mice may also be provided once every couple of weeks, especially if one is planning to breed Fat-tails. Include a calcium/vitimin supplement in your lizard's diet.
Schedule: Feed adult lizards two to three times a week; juveniles every one to two days. Feed your lizard what it will eat within fifteen minutes (or approximately 3 to 5 crickets). Remove uneaten crickets.
Food should be smaller than the length of the lizards head and smaller than half the width of its head.
Vitamins and Calcium: It is absolutly necessary to supplement your lizard's diet with calcium and vitamins. Both may be purchased in powdered form. Make sure that the calcium supplement is free of phosphorous, as it absorbs the useful calcium. How do you administer these ingredients? Place an equal amount of vitamin and calcium powder in a plastic bag, and add the crickets. Shake gently, and toss them in! In the herp world, this is commonly refered to as "shake and bake."
Water: Fat-tails like to lick water off of shallow surfaces. Mist plants and the sides of their tank. Also offer a shallow lid filled with water, but be sure to wash it out daily to avoid bacteria buildup.
HABITAT
Housing: For a single gecko, a ten gallon tank is sufficient, although a larger setup would be nicer. Make sure there is decent ventilation, and never house more than one male together, as chaos will ensue. For a my pair, I have a 20 long tank (30") with a screen top (to keep those pesky crickets in!). Height is not important, as they are not into climbing. Use good judgement. Allow space for at least a shallow water dish, a hiding place, and room for your lizard to comfortably move around without bumping into too many things.
Shelter: Fat-tails need shelter. They are nocturnal and therefore do not enjoy bright lights. Shelter not only provides them with a secure home, but allows them to escape from an overly warm or bright basking light. A piece of cork bark works well (make sure any thing added to the tank is free of parasites). I also include a "lizard sauna," which is a margarine cup with a doorway cut out inverted over an area of moist vermiculite. This is a good area for a gravid female to lay her eggs (if she figures it out - they are notorious for laying their eggs in the least likely place!)
Humidity: Mist the cage several times a week, daily for juveniles. The "lizard sauna" allows them to seek out humidity as needed (see housing above). If the correct amount of humidity is not offered, the lizard may have difficulty with shedding or become dehydrated.
Substrate: Orchid bark combined with Sphagnum moss and a small amount of play sand works well. Make sure that all components are made for reptiles or are sterilized. Mulch purchased from a hardware or lawn store may contain mites.
Temperature: Day - 82F to 88F; Night - 76F to 82F. A good method of maintaining heat is a human heating pad, heat tape, or an under tank heater combined with incandescent lighting. A red light may be used at night, as they do not register this color. Hot Rocks are NOT suggested as lizards of all types may be burned by them.
Hope this helps :)